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28/2.8 and vigneting with filter and hood

kgardas

Member
Hello,
I'm still in process of decising between 28/2.8 and 35/2.8. I'm shooting mainly BW and so I would like to use filters and hoods on the lens. The problem is that Kyocera write: ``(filter cannot be used with the hood)'' for 28/2.8. Has anybody here tried to use filters with the hood on this lens even it's not recommended? I would like to know how much it is vigneting then, i.e. to which focal length I will get if I do photo enlargements myself and will cut vigneting in the corners.
Thanks,
Karel
 

adlerw

Member
Karel,
there are two hood alternatives in the Contax lineup:
1. The rubber hood G-12: If you use this one with an original Contax filter, you will experience visible vignetting in the edges (about 2 mm of the slide frame).
2. The metal hood No.2 in combination with the 55-86mm stepping ring: With filter, the vignetting is slightly worser than with the G-12. But you can screw oFf the hood no.2 and use the stepping ring alone (as a shorter "hood"): Alas, no vignetting anymore (but reduced flare protection).
A third solution would be the B+W wide angle filter holder with integrated metal hood for plain round filter glasses.
Hope this helps, Walther
 

jeff

Active Member
> I know for a fact that you con't use a hood with a filter on the 25mm be cause it just vignettes. I'm surprised that it would with the 28mm. I found an old Konica square metal hood for their 24mm that slips over the filter so you can use both without vignetting. It'll slip over a B+W and Hoya but not a Contax filter. Jeff
 

kgardas

Member
> 2. The metal hood No.2 in combination with the 55-86mm stepping ring: > With filter, the vignetting is slightly worser than with the G-12. But > you can screw oFf the hood no.2 and use the stepping ring alone (as a > shorter "hood"): Alas, no vignetting anymore (but reduced flare > protection).

Walter,

thanks for your information, although I'm a bit confused since Kyocera recommends to use No.1 metal hood instead of your No.2. Yes, I was also curious if the vigneting is caused by filter ring/stepping ring or if it is cased by hood itself, you have kindly answered this question too with suggesting to use only stepping ring.

Thanks, Karel
 

wilsonlaidlaw

Well-Known Member
One alternative to consider (if you are using an SLR and not a G) would be to go for the Cokin P system (its wider than the A with larger filters). You can pick up the filters pretty cheaply on Ebay and the other bits of the system - the holders, adaptor rings and shade boxes are also not too dear. The shade boxes clip to each other to form a variable length hood. I have been using the Cokin P system with both the 35-70 and 18-28 zooms on my RX and as long as I do not open the lens right up at 18mm, there is next to no vignetting. The other advantage is you can have fun with star, split field, wiggly image, variable density and all the other weird filters with the Cokin. If you are using a G, you are stuck. I assumed I could get a 46mm Cokin P adaptor ring for the G but you can't and if you could, then it all gets too much in the way of the viewfinder and focusing windows anyway. Have you tried without a sun hood? When I was doing something similar with my old Leica IIf, a 25mm lens and B&W filters, I started using bits of black cartridge paper but gave up as they always blew into the field of vision or fell off. In the end I found with a colored filter, it seemed to make precious little difference if I used sun shade or not. Wilson
 

adlerw

Member
Karel,
sorry, it may be that I have confused the codes of the metal hoods because I sold them long time ago when I changed to the rubber hoods for practical reasons (in fact, I remembered no.2 for the 55mm thread wide angles, but it might be no.1). Anyway, my other statements remain valid.
Regards, Walther
 
R

raker

I haven't had any problems taking color slides with the Distagon 28 mm f/2.8, plus a Contax 55 mm 1A MC filter, a 55/86 ring, and the Contax Metal Hood 1. Perhaps the slide housing covers any problems? If so, this doesn't seem to be a serious problem, for me at least.
 

edmond

Member
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If you use mainly UV filter for colour photos, then you could try this solution to tailor-fit other brands¡¦ hood to the existing C/Y lenses which induce least weight to your system (each hood at 15 to 20g) and also keep the system compact in size. I used ¡§Minotla¡¦s hood AF 2/24mm¡¨ for my D2.8/25mm as it matches very close for the lens. As for D2.8/28mm, it could use the AF 2/28mm hood from Minolta.

Procedures as follows: - It needs to use file to scrape the inside of the hood until it could allow the 55mm filter to pass through from the hood inside. Don¡¦t scrape too much, as a too loose fit will be unable to apply an effective epoxy adhesive. For cosmetic touch up and also as a seal to prevent adhesive squeezing during cement stage, it requires to make a 0.3mm thick plastic ring (outer diameter 65mm, inner diameter 56mm), which is cut from a 0.3mm white plastic sheet and spray to black. The ring is then sandwiched tightly between the filter and the lens. Then apply just adequate slow-setting epoxy adhesive to the scraped portion of the hood and the filter and also some to the back of the hood and then slip it onto the filter until it rest at the plastic ring position. The filter glass would require to be covered by paper for temporary protection. The lens was then positioned with the rear side facing up to further avoid the excess epoxy adhesive to flow down the lens screw. Thereafter leave it for 1 hour for the epoxy adhesive to set and 12 hours for developing full strength. The completed hood set will bind permanently with the filter and cannot be separated. For wide angle lens hood with cross-star shape, it needs to calibrate the correct vertical position of the hood. (Warning: if epoxy squeeze into the lens screw, it would be unable to unscrew the filter after full setting of the epoxy. After necessary position calibration, I actually covered one more spare 55mm filter in front of the lens during cement stage).

Hoods added to my C/Y lenses are: -

D2.8/21mm: Canon hood for EF20-35
D2.8/25mm: Minotla hood for AF 2/24mm
D2.8/35mm: Minotla hood for AF 2/28mm
P1.7/50mm: Minotla hood for AF 1.4/50mm
S2.8/85mm: Canon hood for FD 4.5/75-200mm
 

blumesan

Well-Known Member
I posted this same question in another thread weeks ago, but no answer. This seems a likely place to try again:

To get round the problem of vignetting, especially with D 28mm/2.8, I have tried a variety of step up rings and wide angle hoods. In some cases the vignetting is immediately obvious in the viewfinder (Aria). In other cases there was no apparent shadowing in the viewfinder. Is this sufficient evidence that vignetting will not occur? Or do I need to make exposures with all the various permutations in order to be certain?

Thanks for your input.

Mike Blume
 
Y

ygs

Mike,

I have had the same problem with my D28/2.8

Aria has 95% viewfinder so you cannot see vignetting. Moreover viewfinder has its own vignetting.

So, you should make some photos of white paper, for ex&le. Try it with different apertures, especially wide open. Then inspect film with loupe.

Regards,
Yuri
 

rico

Well-Known Member
Mike,

Do I understand you vignette with the recommended hoods? According to Contax, these are the 55mm G-12 (rubber) and the No.1 (metal).

As Yuri says, the Aria has less than full-frame coverage in the VF: you need the RTS III for 100%. The direct-view method is further h&ered by the D28/2.8 wide open, when light fall-off reaches 80%.
 

blumesan

Well-Known Member
Yuri,
Thanks. You are obviously correct. I had neglected to consider the limitations of the viewfinder. I will make some trial exposures.

Rico,
Unfortunately I do not have the recommended hoods. Thus my experiments with other available equipment. By the way, where did you obtain the information that light fall-off reaches 80% with the D28/2.8 wide open?

Thanks for your imput.

Mike.
 
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