Using 75 VC on M3 WHICH framelinesadapter

[0000]

I love and use two M3s (beaten but regularly cla'd and beaten some more).Note I have one as a back up! They are grandfathers in people years!

I have a 50 cron I love.

I want to use the 75 VC heliar on an M3.

QUESTION IS:

WHICH ADAPTER TO BUY 50/75 OR 90/28?

50mm=46 degree angle of view

90mm=27 degree angle of view

75mm=32 degree angle of view

The M3 provides 50,90,135 framelines only.

I think a 5 degree difference with the 90's angles of view vs. the 15 degree of difference with the 50 when compared to the 75 is where I should find my answer.

The 90 adapter makes the most sense.

I can imagine roughly having a 18% bleed outside the frame. (The 50 is roughly 50%.)

To shoot very tightly/over tightly on purpose with this in mind.

Any thoughts on this?

Is this workable in you opinon?

Is it a good idea?

Has anyone done what I plan to do?

THANKS to all the posters to this question.

 

[uj78]

Why not just clip the accessory viewfinder into your shoe and have the exact view of the lens.

 

[0000]

There is an excellent shoe mount finder by VC.

I'd prefer to frame and focus together.

It breaks the flow.

I find I can only use acessory finders with the 24 or below because my focus is set to hyperfocal.

Frame and shoot.

Thanks for the suggestion though, Mark.

 

[hektor]

Dear David,

I use the 90mm adaptor and frame rougly half way between the 50 and 90 frames. With negative film it can later be cropped if necessary.

Great lens.

Justin

 

[kren2000]

I would rather use the 90mm adapter with the 75mm lens. You can always crop on film when the negative shows more than you wanted. But if you frame using a 50mm adapter and expect someone's head to be visible and they are cut out of the frame, then there's nothing you can do.

Karen

p.s. with the M3, you can also toggle the 50/90 frames manually and imagine framelines somewhere inbetween the two. That's the advantage of the frameline selector at your fingertips.

 

[0000]

I agree with Karen and Justin.

Their advice is the way I plan to approach it.

I figure if I shoot some cheap outdated chromes and with the 75 and then a borrowed 90 with the camera set on a tripod and focus set at infinity then I will understand very closely where I should mentally crop for a FF negative.

I like to print it ff with my BW if possible.

I am not a purist. I will crop if necessary!

I simply see the value in a larger negative area = better looking print.

Please if anyone else has any input it is very welcome. Thanks to the posters thus far!