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Yashica FRII FRI

Thanks Paul and Richard,

It looks as though the FR1 is clearly better than the other two, but the only ones I have been able to find recently have the non-working frame counter problem. I guess I'll just have to be patient.


Thanks again, you've been most helpful!
Adam F
 
Richard,
You bring up an interesting point about the FR series that anyone contemplating buying one should be aware of. The company that made all the "real" film in the world and packaged it in little yellow boxes decided that they could save millions of feet of film by shortening the leader on each roll. The FR take-up spool winds the film over the top, and combined with the "fingers" used to secure the beginning of the roll makes for an unsecure film advance system with the short film leaders found today. Your have to be sure the film is advancing by watching the rewind knob. It can slip off the take-up spool after two or three frames. Happened to me a lot. I started to burn five frames at the start of a roll, just to make sure the film hadn't slipped off. That, combined with the typical non-working film counter gave one to many surprises.
The FR I is a nice, solid body. The battery lasts forever, or seems to....
The only other quibble I have is with its remote shutter release. It uses a push on bayonet. It comes out rather easily. Not commonly found, either. There's an adapter to use the current screw in style remote release, however it, too is uncommon.
The FX 3 is a great back-up, or travel camera. Lightweight, compact, and reliable. Totally manual, with basically a match needle exposure indicator that uses LED's instead of a meters pointer. It has a mechanical shutter that works in any weather, modern take-up spool that winds underneath, and an old style mechanical remote shutter release found almost anywhere. About the only thing that it doesn't do well is follow rapidly changing lighting, whereas the FR I has aperture priority automatic exposure, a big plus in nightclubs.
Both bodies can bought insanely cheaply on ebay, and a quite a bargain. The FR I was not an inexpensive camera when it was being produced. I paid over a weeks wages (my measure of inflation adjustment) for a kit that included the body, a 50mm 1.7 ML lens and "neverready" case...(great lens BTW)
Pardon the lengthy post,
Joe W
 
This has been an interesting thread. I'm glad this was all brought up. Just a slightly off topic comment since there was talk about the film take up spools on the FR-series. On my FX-103, although I love the camera, I often mumble some unkind words at it while trying to convince the film leader to slip into that little slot and the notches to fit over the peg. I find my Contaflex easier and faster by far to load than my FX-103, even accounting for the Contaflex's removable back and drop out film spool. I have had some trouble with mounting of the slide films out of my FX-103 lately too - in that the frames line up in a slightly inconvenient way for the slide mounting machine. SOME machines invariably catch a corner and slices a frame or two. (Of course the best frames!) and I'm told it is due to my camera's method of placement. (The same labs don't slice rolls of film from my other cameras) Just an interesting off topic bit of information. -Lynn L.
 
Adam et al.....

Faulty FR (& I's & II's) frame counters are common.

They use a nylon(?) gear on a steel shaft. The gear can either slip on the shaft through heavy use (superglue fix!) or the gear can split (replacement only fix)

The push-fit remote is not a big deal.... and there seem to be enough around in the UK including the screw thread to push-fit adapter (R6SJ?) to make it a side-issue. I assume the USA has similar supplies.

Out of interest.... I reckon the FR is a tad heavier than the FRI & FRII .... gives the impression that it is more solidly built .... but in reality they all seem to be "good old bricks" with the emphasis on "good"!

I've never had film-loading problems with my FR, FRI, FRII or FX3 Super 2000.....guess I was brought up on older, crankier cameras!

My least favourite of the FR’s is the FRII - Auto only, and my favourite is the FRI - a "does everything" camera - almost fully compatible with all RTS and RTS II accessories. If I was forced to make a choice ... I’d still pick the FX-3 Super 2000 as my desert island camera because of its mechanical shutter, even though it doesn't take a motor winder or have d-o-f preview!

I’ll admit that frame spacing of any of them is not quite as even as Contax.

Never had an FX-103 ... It seems too close to the 139Q to not bother buying anything other than the Contax! I suppose S/H price differences might sway my opinion.

Cheers, Bob.

p.s. I like they way they moved the battery check light off the FR's top plate to the FRI's and FRII's frame counter!
 
To all those who have owned both cameras, is the FR's CdS meter noticeably different (e.g. slower) from the SPD one in the other two cameras? I'm told that SPD cells work better in dark conditions...but I'm pretty sure the old spotmatic we have lying around has a CdS meter and it is fine...

Thanks, Adam F
 
Adam ... I've not noticed any practical difference in speed of use or speed of metering under changing light conditions.

The FR seems slower to use because you have to alter the aperture or shutter speed to get "correct" exposure. With the FRI & FRII on Auto, you'll get a "correct" exposure without altering either (assuming the exposure is somewhere within the film speeds range
happy.gif
). Of course, it might not be the preferred one!

Cheers, Bob. >WHO TYPED HIS MESSAGE HERE!
happy.gif
 
Sorry if this appears twice .... first one seemed to disappeared into the ether! It read (something like...)

Thanks Joan ... Now that we have the missing word, our Chilean friend’s message seems to be ...

“Tighten again the screw axis of the dial accountant and is fixed”

Now, I’m not sure if this little pearl is directly related to my comment about dodgy FR frame counters ... It doesn’t seem to be (if you re-read my original message), but I’m sure Francisco can be helpful to this group if he has such knowledge (and we can translate the whole message!).

Forgive me Francisco, I am no linguist (except in Scouse!) and rely heavily on Babelfish to do the work!

Cheers, Bob.
 
>

Well, My english isn't good enough to judge if the translation is correct. It seems in someone's camera the dial axis screw has come loose and, due this, the camera has some kind of misfunction...but I haven't encountered that in any message in this discussion brand. Perhaps Francisco can explain his message.
 
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