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Bug on a leaf ...
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DoctorDeathsBay
Active Member
Hi Rich,
many SIGMATONIANS think, they can replace the 18-50mm DC (KIT) by the 18-200mm DC (OS).
As far as the pure image quality is concerned .... well all right ... I agree.
The significant difference is, that the minimal Fokus length is 45 cm with the 18-200mm and just 25cm with the 18-50 DC (KIT). This advantage alone should prevent jou from selling it!
If you take a seriuos interest in macro-photography ....
It is my firm passion. "Stay tuned" then .... we can cooperate!
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
many SIGMATONIANS think, they can replace the 18-50mm DC (KIT) by the 18-200mm DC (OS).
As far as the pure image quality is concerned .... well all right ... I agree.
The significant difference is, that the minimal Fokus length is 45 cm with the 18-200mm and just 25cm with the 18-50 DC (KIT). This advantage alone should prevent jou from selling it!
If you take a seriuos interest in macro-photography ....
It is my firm passion. "Stay tuned" then .... we can cooperate!
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
DoctorDeathsBay
Active Member
I have looked at a few of your photos now and I can see you do like macro photography. Your photos are amazing and quite inspiring.
I will keep my Sigma kit lens as it is simply universal and handy. I will upgrade to a Sigma macro lens soon but will most probably also buy another Sigma SD14 just because I love them so much.
Thanks for your great comments.
I would add a photo here but the photos are stored on the other computer.
Until Next Time
Rich
I will keep my Sigma kit lens as it is simply universal and handy. I will upgrade to a Sigma macro lens soon but will most probably also buy another Sigma SD14 just because I love them so much.
Thanks for your great comments.
I would add a photo here but the photos are stored on the other computer.
Until Next Time
Rich
Hello Jim,
thanks a lot!
As always, you are absolutely right! A photographer's heart should do at least 90% of their work! Technical perfection develops automatically!
I have been asked so many times, whether a SIGMA SD was a suitable cam to learn basic photography....
My answer always is a clear YES for those who are really ambitious to learn. A SIGMA simply does not really work without a skilled user or an ambitious learner.
If you want an easy cam, better go for a CANON.
Over two years of forum work, I got to know quite a number of beginners who extremely fast got their SIGMAs under control ... and at the same time PHOTOGRAPHY itself.
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
thanks a lot!
As always, you are absolutely right! A photographer's heart should do at least 90% of their work! Technical perfection develops automatically!
I have been asked so many times, whether a SIGMA SD was a suitable cam to learn basic photography....
My answer always is a clear YES for those who are really ambitious to learn. A SIGMA simply does not really work without a skilled user or an ambitious learner.
If you want an easy cam, better go for a CANON.
Over two years of forum work, I got to know quite a number of beginners who extremely fast got their SIGMAs under control ... and at the same time PHOTOGRAPHY itself.
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
DoctorDeathsBay
Active Member
Klaus I totally agree and I hope I will be the candidate to take on the role of the newly acquired ambitious SD14 user, wanting to learn hard and think deep.
On this tasty note I must ask a question.....
Sigma have given the SD14 user the option to go down to ISO 50, what's the benefits and what do you feel about ISO 50. I have been using ISO 50 for a month now and have heard a few people say ISO 50 is really like a unstable/pro setting where you have to have the lighting condition correct to use the setting?..... I'm not too sure, what setting do you use? What do you think is best?
Richie
On this tasty note I must ask a question.....
Sigma have given the SD14 user the option to go down to ISO 50, what's the benefits and what do you feel about ISO 50. I have been using ISO 50 for a month now and have heard a few people say ISO 50 is really like a unstable/pro setting where you have to have the lighting condition correct to use the setting?..... I'm not too sure, what setting do you use? What do you think is best?
Richie
foveonfan
Well-Known Member
I hope you won't mind me butting in here, Ritchie, but I use 50 ISO almost exclusively, because of it's superb "grainless" feature. Yes it's even less unforgiving in the exposure department than 100 ISO, but certainly worth it when super enlargements (often beyond AO for me) are required.
This is one of the reasons why I took so easily to the SD14, like a duck takes to water!
Take the time to get the exposure "spot on" and this camera will deliver with rewarding results.
Sincere regards, Jim Roelofs
DoctorDeathsBay
Active Member
Hi All,
well, ISO 50 (former 18 DIN) means, that the foveon image sensor becomes exposed to twice the amount of light compared to ISO 100 four times as much compared to ISO 200, eight times as much compared to ISO 400 and so forth.
The Foveon sensor architecture unfortunately has disadvantages in noise performance compared to the most modern Bayer-designs.
Each photo-cell produces some electric disturbing signal ... i.e. it produces some small voltage even if there is no light triggering this signal (like the little sonic noise which you might notice with a microphone or an amplifier.)
With an image sensor, these disturbing signals are called "dark currents".
The Foveon X3-(three layer) sensor supposedly is the most accurate image sensor on the market because each pixel is scanned by three separate photo cells, recording the ground colours each separately and independently.
The problem now is, that you accumulate the dark current of three photo cells per pixel. The other point is, that the light has to "dive" through the silicon layers and becomes dimmed this way a bit, which reduces the signal to noise distance further.
Honestly said, the Foveon cannot really compete with Bayer's high ISO performance. Up to ISO 400 it can keep up with Bayer .... ISO 800 still is acceptable ... ISO 1600 can be managed with some software tricks ... I did a thread on the issue.
Although picture noise is no real problem up to ISO 400, you should never use sensor sensivities higher than necessary, to cut down noise to a minimum.
At ISO 50 the signal to noise ratio is as good as possible. Picture noise comes down to an absolute minimum ... although the difference to ISO 100 hardly is visible.
So ISO 50 is a good idea when very big poster prints are planned and noise must be reduced to the lowest possible extend ..... but .....
I do not recommend ISO 50 if the scene contains very bright shiny elements or very bright reflexions. Then you risc to really overexpose the Foveon!
Iso 50 means that the sensor loses its typical capacity of tracing details in the lights.
Simply put .... noise is best at ISO 50 but "dynamic" is best at ISO 200 or ISO 400.
So I often do a compromise, using ISO 100, which is my standard setting.
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
well, ISO 50 (former 18 DIN) means, that the foveon image sensor becomes exposed to twice the amount of light compared to ISO 100 four times as much compared to ISO 200, eight times as much compared to ISO 400 and so forth.
The Foveon sensor architecture unfortunately has disadvantages in noise performance compared to the most modern Bayer-designs.
Each photo-cell produces some electric disturbing signal ... i.e. it produces some small voltage even if there is no light triggering this signal (like the little sonic noise which you might notice with a microphone or an amplifier.)
With an image sensor, these disturbing signals are called "dark currents".
The Foveon X3-(three layer) sensor supposedly is the most accurate image sensor on the market because each pixel is scanned by three separate photo cells, recording the ground colours each separately and independently.
The problem now is, that you accumulate the dark current of three photo cells per pixel. The other point is, that the light has to "dive" through the silicon layers and becomes dimmed this way a bit, which reduces the signal to noise distance further.
Honestly said, the Foveon cannot really compete with Bayer's high ISO performance. Up to ISO 400 it can keep up with Bayer .... ISO 800 still is acceptable ... ISO 1600 can be managed with some software tricks ... I did a thread on the issue.
Although picture noise is no real problem up to ISO 400, you should never use sensor sensivities higher than necessary, to cut down noise to a minimum.
At ISO 50 the signal to noise ratio is as good as possible. Picture noise comes down to an absolute minimum ... although the difference to ISO 100 hardly is visible.
So ISO 50 is a good idea when very big poster prints are planned and noise must be reduced to the lowest possible extend ..... but .....
I do not recommend ISO 50 if the scene contains very bright shiny elements or very bright reflexions. Then you risc to really overexpose the Foveon!
Iso 50 means that the sensor loses its typical capacity of tracing details in the lights.
Simply put .... noise is best at ISO 50 but "dynamic" is best at ISO 200 or ISO 400.
So I often do a compromise, using ISO 100, which is my standard setting.
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
foveonfan
Well-Known Member
Very well explained, Klaus! Thank you very much.
It is indeed crucially important that we know the characteristics of the sensor, just like it was very important to know the characteristics of emulsions in a previous life.
Perhaps I should have qualified my last post with the words, "50 ISO suits my purpose for taking pictures for very big enlargements but other's circumstances may vary to the extent that higher ISO settings might be appropriate".
Sincere regards, JR
It is indeed crucially important that we know the characteristics of the sensor, just like it was very important to know the characteristics of emulsions in a previous life.
Perhaps I should have qualified my last post with the words, "50 ISO suits my purpose for taking pictures for very big enlargements but other's circumstances may vary to the extent that higher ISO settings might be appropriate".
Sincere regards, JR
DoctorDeathsBay
Active Member
Klaus, Your still a genius.
I have looked all over the net previously (with failed results ) and your explanation sums everything up and really gives me a much clearer perspective on the use of the ISO settings with this camera.
I'm amazed but thrilled to have learned that much info from my question.
Thank you so much.
Its time for me to try the ISO 50 & 100 settings more in-depth.
Thanks again
Richie
I have looked all over the net previously (with failed results ) and your explanation sums everything up and really gives me a much clearer perspective on the use of the ISO settings with this camera.
I'm amazed but thrilled to have learned that much info from my question.
Thank you so much.
Its time for me to try the ISO 50 & 100 settings more in-depth.
Thanks again
Richie
Hi Richie,
thanks for the flowers ...
you can be absolutely assured that I am far away from being a genius!!!
I just love photography in general and my SD cameras in particular.
Further, I love the English language much more than my mother tongue. As a side effect, I get some training here with the forum.
Luckily, this forum wakes up now ... with very interesting photographers and their pictures and ideas.
When our admin asked me to watch this forum in addition to our German SIGMA-forum, I really could not say no.
It's a nice place here!!
See you with nice pictures
Klaus
