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Well, I really intended to go for (further) dragonflies today ... unfortunately there were not any ... but this little bug turned up in front of my SD9, the bellows, the 18-200mm DC (@200mm) and my flashlight.
As always, you are absolutely right! A photographer's heart should do at least 90% of their work! Technical perfection develops automatically!
I have been asked so many times, whether a SIGMA SD was a suitable cam to learn basic photography....
My answer always is a clear YES for those who are really ambitious to learn. A SIGMA simply does not really work without a skilled user or an ambitious learner.
If you want an easy cam, better go for a CANON.
Over two years of forum work, I got to know quite a number of beginners who extremely fast got their SIGMAs under control ... and at the same time PHOTOGRAPHY itself.
Klaus I totally agree and I hope I will be the candidate to take on the role of the newly acquired ambitious SD14 user, wanting to learn hard and think deep.
On this tasty note I must ask a question.....
Sigma have given the SD14 user the option to go down to ISO 50, what's the benefits and what do you feel about ISO 50. I have been using ISO 50 for a month now and have heard a few people say ISO 50 is really like a unstable/pro setting where you have to have the lighting condition correct to use the setting?..... I'm not too sure, what setting do you use? What do you think is best?
I hope you won't mind me butting in here, Ritchie, but I use 50 ISO almost exclusively, because of it's superb "grainless" feature. Yes it's even less unforgiving in the exposure department than 100 ISO, but certainly worth it when super enlargements (often beyond AO for me) are required.
This is one of the reasons why I took so easily to the SD14, like a duck takes to water!
Take the time to get the exposure "spot on" and this camera will deliver with rewarding results.
well, ISO 50 (former 18 DIN) means, that the foveon image sensor becomes exposed to twice the amount of light compared to ISO 100 four times as much compared to ISO 200, eight times as much compared to ISO 400 and so forth.
The Foveon sensor architecture unfortunately has disadvantages in noise performance compared to the most modern Bayer-designs.
Each photo-cell produces some electric disturbing signal ... i.e. it produces some small voltage even if there is no light triggering this signal (like the little sonic noise which you might notice with a microphone or an amplifier.)
With an image sensor, these disturbing signals are called "dark currents".
The Foveon X3-(three layer) sensor supposedly is the most accurate image sensor on the market because each pixel is scanned by three separate photo cells, recording the ground colours each separately and independently.
The problem now is, that you accumulate the dark current of three photo cells per pixel. The other point is, that the light has to "dive" through the silicon layers and becomes dimmed this way a bit, which reduces the signal to noise distance further.
Honestly said, the Foveon cannot really compete with Bayer's high ISO performance. Up to ISO 400 it can keep up with Bayer .... ISO 800 still is acceptable ... ISO 1600 can be managed with some software tricks ... I did a thread on the issue.
Although picture noise is no real problem up to ISO 400, you should never use sensor sensivities higher than necessary, to cut down noise to a minimum.
At ISO 50 the signal to noise ratio is as good as possible. Picture noise comes down to an absolute minimum ... although the difference to ISO 100 hardly is visible.
So ISO 50 is a good idea when very big poster prints are planned and noise must be reduced to the lowest possible extend ..... but .....
I do not recommend ISO 50 if the scene contains very bright shiny elements or very bright reflexions. Then you risc to really overexpose the Foveon!
Iso 50 means that the sensor loses its typical capacity of tracing details in the lights.
Simply put .... noise is best at ISO 50 but "dynamic" is best at ISO 200 or ISO 400.
So I often do a compromise, using ISO 100, which is my standard setting.
It is indeed crucially important that we know the characteristics of the sensor, just like it was very important to know the characteristics of emulsions in a previous life.
Perhaps I should have qualified my last post with the words, "50 ISO suits my purpose for taking pictures for very big enlargements but other's circumstances may vary to the extent that higher ISO settings might be appropriate".
Klaus, Your still a genius.
I have looked all over the net previously (with failed results ) and your explanation sums everything up and really gives me a much clearer perspective on the use of the ISO settings with this camera.
I'm amazed but thrilled to have learned that much info from my question.
Thank you so much.
Its time for me to try the ISO 50 & 100 settings more in-depth.