Contax flash

[shabbir]

Thanks Nicolas Chong.Does not 3802 require 3000C to use on 45CT4/36CT2/30TTLi,35CT2? i hve 40Mz2 and 32MZ3 which wants to use on ax (now broken) and hope to be restored so before making a decision i was seeking advice and think 382 is economical because sca 3802 is not performing power zooming with 40mz2/32mz3.

 

[dja]

>> Any Sunpak dedicated flash owners out there? Does the 3-pin Sunpak> YC-1D Yashica/Contax TTL module work on the 5 contact RX hotshoe? If> so, is TTL metering supported? <<

>I use my Sunpak flash with the Contax module quite succesfully , but I only have 3 pin cameras . I see no reason why it wouldnt work just like if you were using a TLA30 with an Aria or RX i.e. you would lose some viewfinder info etc , but it would work just fine all the same . Steve <

Thanks Steve.

I assumed the 2 additional contacts would support new features, while the original 3 contacts were compatible with older flashes. As you said, anything else would break compatibility with older TLA units. I guess I was looking for some support of my assumption.

I too use the Sunpak on a 3 contact 139Q with excellent results.

Do you or anyone know which of the small contacts is for TTL? I ask because I am looking for a small Yashica flash for travel. Many of these have only the main hotshoe contact and a lower right contact. I don't know if this contact supports viewfinder info or TTL metering.

Thanks again,
Dave

 

[petinto]

Hi to all, I have a question about my two months ago bought CONTAX RTSIII camera when using with my previous Metz 32 CT-7 flash (with SCA 380 adapter), specially when the camera is in Manual mode and the flash in any Program mode. I adjust the exposure using the preview flash lever until the preview says the exposure is correct, and then after I pull the lever to the original position I shoot and I see how after the shot the display marks underexposure. Is this normal? Should I take into account the reading of the flash, or the preview of the camera? Thanks. Thepotro7

 

[rondo]

Potro,

This is from

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Click on slr, then RTSIII...


Q. My TLA280 on the RTS III gives two different readings, the after flash confirmation reads OK on the TTL system but the Pre-Flash Spot Meter always indicates under exposure by one to two stops.

A. The TTL Auto Flash Sensor has a considerably broader center-weighted average sensor area than the Pre-Flash Spot Meter which only measures a 5mm circle at the film plane.

You may find it helpful.
Ron

 

[matthias]

> Do you or anyone know which of the small contacts is for TTL? I ask > because I am looking for a small Yashica flash for travel. Many of > these have only the main hotshoe contact and a lower right contact. The lower right contact is only for the flash-indicator in the viewfinder (green flash occurs when flash is ready). TTL is possible only with flashes, which have three contacts. But there are YASHICA flashes with that feature.

And: There is no flash which has only the "lower left", e.g. TTL, contact.

Matthias

 

[marc]

One more thought on the 5-pin topic. It seems that functionally there is more to it than just an exchange of informations between flash and camera. This is also from the Q&A section at contaxcameras.com :
Q: The RX has a five pin hot shoe while all of the other CONTAX camera bodies have only three pins. What do these extra pins give me?
A: The extra pins are included on the RX and the new CONTAX AX to communicate at an enhanced level of TTL with the TLA360 Flash. One of the enhanced features of the combination is that the f stop set on the lens will be displayed on the TLA360 flash. The other feature gained by the enhancement is the ability to power down the TLA360 providing flash fill ratios. This information applies to the RX and AX.

This should equally apply to the SCA 3802, I think.

 

[mkoerner]

Wrong! The TLA140 and TLA200 do have only two pins (Main and lower right) but with newer Contaxes (I think starting with the 167MT) you still can do TTL. However these flashes can't do TTL with the older Models like the 139Q or RTSII.

Mike

 

[nicolas]

[have only two pins (Main and lower right) but with newer Contaxes (I think starting with the 167MT) you still can do TTL

Mike, I may disagree there. According to the manual, the lower right is only the 'flash ready' the TTL definately uses the lower left contact. I use a very low power Yashica CS140 flash (with center & lower right pins) in that way and the photos turn out very nice, not because its TTL, but because the print film has good latitude.

The effectiveness of TTL only becomes apparent in print when the flash is too powerful (overexposed) and photos are 'washed out'. If the flash is under-powered, print film can often be 'pushed' to compensate and is not noticible. Most shops have machines that automatically compensate for density in prints, so only by viewing the negatives will there be a good comparison.

I believe that newer Contaxes just have better 'software/programming' to deal with flash photography - possible based on ambient light

Nicolas ]

 

[nicolas]

[OT, but I'm using a non-TTL yashica flash (CS140) on my AX. It works well because the yashica flash signals the camera that the 'flash is ready' and the camera sets the correct flash sync speed.

Since my flash is non-TTL, I want to put a mask to tone down the guide number. On my Metz 40Mz3i, there is a supplied smoke colored filter(Neutral Density - I assume) provided

My question: What can I use as an ND filter on my flash. It should be color neutral and not melt (&cheap).

]

 

[mkoerner]

You may disagree, but that doesn't mean I'm wrong

The TLA200 *does* have TTL. It has a three position switch: off - manual - ttl. The manual also says it has TTL and I can easily confirm this as I use this flash quite often. Apart from that I shoot lots of slides as well and I can tell you it is "efective". And it HAS only two pins (no lower left).

I think Kyocera introduced an additional way of TTL control mainly to be able to use some kind of TTL with their G-Series Rangefinders for which this flash is mainly intended. (And from what I heard Flash power control and calculation is done differently with these rangefinders than with the SLRs). I would guess that they simply use the main pin to now control not only the "fire", but also the "end fire" information (not very difficult to implement and probably quite backwards compatible)

And regarding the CS140: AFAIK this is also no "manual only" flash, but an auto flash, which has the sensor in the flash. So this flash also *does* regulate Flash power.

Mike

 

[nicolas]

[Mike,

That's interesting and you're right - I stand corrected.

I've used the TLA200 and it is like you described with the TTL switch - I was thinking of the TLA20.

I wonder if that means my CS140 is also TTL? I'll go and test it again tonight. I'm quite sure the flash has no auto mode. Just for reference, this is what the flash looks like:

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OT: On my Rollei XF35 (rangefinder) the flash system is very interesting. It only has a centre hot-shoe contact. But you dial in the guide number of any flash; as you focus, the camera knows the distance to the subject (because its a rangefinder), it then sets the aperture to an appropriate f-stop to compensate for the light fall-off across the distance (ie bigger aperture for further subjects). Wonderfully exposed photos everytime. I think the new Nik*n and Can*n also have this function as the lens transmits the distance info to the camera, then to the flash.

Nicolas

]

 

[sanya_hu]

Hi!

I have an NX, and I don't know, whether the older flashes (e.g. TLA 30) will work with this camera or not. So will a TLA 30 work with the NX? This question is important to me, because the TLA 30 is a lot cheaper than e.g. the TLA 360.

Thanks,
Sándor

 

[petinto]

Thanks a lot Ron! So I think that this is normal. But then, which of the readings should I trust in? I am sure you have more experience than me with this... Thanks again. Thepotro7

 

[swoolf]

> Since my flash is non-TTL, I want to put a mask to tone down the guide> number. On my Metz 40Mz3i, there is a supplied smoke colored> filter(Neutral Density - I assume) provided >> My question: What can I use as an ND filter on my flash. It should be> color neutral and not melt (&cheap).

Surely a better and easier way to do this would be to just use the auto setting [ and I'm assuming the Metz has this ] and then just set the flash to a different aperture setting to the one you are actually using on the camera?? Steve

 

[dja]

>>I wonder if that means my CS140 is also TTL? I'll go and test it again tonight. I'm quite sure the flash has no auto mode.<<

Nicolas, let us know the result of your test. Prior to this discussion, I was under the impression the CS-140 was TTL capable. But, it sounds like without the "lower left" contact that wouldn't be possible.

Also, I believe that model has an "upper left" contact too. Maybe a different arrangement that is unique to the newer Yashica AF bodies, for which that flash was intended.

Dave

 

[dja]

>>The lower right contact is only for the flash-indicator in the viewfinder (green flash occurs when flash is ready). TTL is possible only with flashes, which have three contacts.<<

As I look into this, I think this may not be correct. I've seen references in the past related to Yashica TTL capable flashes that have center + lower right contacts.

In fact, someone is currently selling an off-brand Y/C dedicated flash module with the 2-pin configuration. Here is his/her description of the functions supported by this module:

"THIS MODULE OFFERS MANUAL, AUTO, 3 LEVELS OF TTL AND 1/16 FILL FLASH.... NOTE... THIS IS FOR THE MANUAL FOCUS YASHICAS, IT HAS NO AUTO FOCUS INFRARED ASSIST. IT HAS 2 PINS TO CONNECT WITH THE HOT SHOE"

It would seem center + lower right configuration does allow TTL.

Dave

 

[nicolas]

[Hi Steve,

The question was not related to my Metz. I use a Yashica CS140 because its small, the Metz weighs more than the average Point & Shoot, must be 400g with batteries in it.

Does anyone know of a cheap and easy ND filter for flash?

Nicolas]

 

[nicolas]

[Hi Dave,

Tested the CS140 and it is NOT TTL.

I suspect that the number of contacts is only an indication that a flash is TTL. And TTL capability is determined by the design of the flash itself. Thinking about it, most flashes just charge up the capacitor and discharge. It must take some extra hardware to allow the flash to cut-off part-way through the output

regards, Nicolas ]

 

[swoolf]

> [Hi Steve,> The question was not related to my Metz. I use a Yashica CS140 because> its small, the Metz weighs more than the average Point & Shoot, must > be 400g with batteries in it.> > Does anyone know of a cheap and easy ND filter for flash?

Oh okay , but I think the same would apply to the Yashica flash too . I'm not familiar with that model , but I'd be a bit surprised if it doesnt have an "auto" setting as well . The only ND filters I've come across have come with a aparticular model at the outset . Perhaps you could try using a Cokin ND filter[quite cheap] , although you might have to cut it down to size or something . Just a thought! Steve

 

[sem]

>

Yes. Just cover part of the output face of the flash with something opaque. Cover 50% = 1 stop. Cover 75% = 2 stops.