Contax RTS/RTS I

[arnopoon]

I used my uncle's RTS to take some photos recently. I found that of those 36 photos (a roll of FUJI Superia 200) some of them (less than 10) have abnormal "red" area on the photo. It seems the film is exposed to light. But apart from them, other photos are normal and in good condition.

If it is my RTS problem, then all 36 photos of the roll will have same "red" problem. But now just few of it have, and the problem appear randomly as well, not at the first few or at the last few photos of the roll.

Can anyone help me? What is the reason behine this? What should I do?

Here is the abnormal ex&le:
http://www.bylinux.net/~arnopoon/tmp/004.jpg

Thanks.

 

[mike_nunan]

Hi Arno,

This sounds like a common or garden light leak. The reason only some of the frames show the problem is that with a partial leak the fogging will only be apparent where the film was not wound on for some time or where the leaky part of the camera was directed towards bright light. Any camera of this vintage will need the foam light seals replacing, if you look closely at the material you will probably see it has started to deteriorate. The main problem area on an RTS I is the strip of foam on the back next to the hinge. This gets squashed flat when you close the back, and over time it loses its resilience and doesn't form a proper seal. Any repairer should be able to fix these problems for a reasonable price, or for maximum value you can just buy some foam and go DIY.

HTH

-= mike =-

 

[ou1954]

>Posted by Arno Poon on Saturday, May 24, 2003 - 9:32 am: > >I used my uncle's RTS to take some photos recently. I found that of >those 36 photos (a roll of FUJI Superia 200) some of them (less than >10) have abnormal "red" area on the photo. It seems the film is >exposed to light. But apart from them, other photos are normal and in >good condition. > >If it is my RTS problem, then all 36 photos of the roll will have same >"red" problem. But now just few of it have, and the problem appear >randomly as well, not at the first few or at the last few photos of >the roll. > >Can anyone help me? What is the reason behind this? What should I do? > >Here is the abnormal ex&le: >http://www.bylinux.net/~arnopoon/tmp/004.jpg > >Thanks.

Check for shutter pin-holes. Check with a bright light on the other side, and do it with the shutter cocked and not-cocked.

I had the same problem, and there are some easy fixes.

 

[ou1954]

>Posted by Arno Poon on Saturday, May 24, 2003 - 9:32 am: > >I used my uncle's RTS to take some photos recently. I found that of >those 36 photos (a roll of FUJI Superia 200) some of them (less than >10) have abnormal "red" area on the photo. It seems the film is >exposed to light. But apart from them, other photos are normal and in >good condition. > >If it is my RTS problem, then all 36 photos of the roll will have same >"red" problem. But now just few of it have, and the problem appear >randomly as well, not at the first few or at the last few photos of >the roll. > >Can anyone help me? What is the reason behind this? What should I do?

Is there an outcome to report yet?

 

[pkipnis]

how did you load and unload the camera, In bright light? outsides? sometimes light can get into the film cassette if it isn't properly handeled. Describe where and what color the light marks are for further

 

[kubik]

I would tend to believe your problem is caused by leaky foam seals around the camera back. Open your camera back and very gently rub a toothpick on them. They should be firm and supple. If they produce dust or easily break then they should be replaced. Most serious camera repair centres can do this. BTW, this is a wonderfull, sturdy camera. In 1990, I carried one in my backpack during a 3-month geology field trip in northern Saskatchewan. It took some of my best pictures that summer!

Guillaume

 

[arnopoon]

Thanks for all of your kindly help.
I have checked my RTS and foam seals around the camera back does deteriorate and have some leakage.

One more thing the "red pattern" appear on the problem photos are always located at similar position. Why or does it indicate further problem?

Anyway, I will take my RTS to repair to see if the problem really caused ONLY by the foam leakage or other more problem.

Thank you very much.

 

[europanorama]

BTW, this is a wonderfull, sturdy camera. >In 1990, I carried one in my backpack during a 3-month geology field >trip in northern Saskatchewan. It took some of my best pictures that >summer! > >Guillaume yes, and in winter you will get a lot of troubles with this deep-battery-consumption-camera. with the pmd-motor-drive there was an adapter using the motordrives batteries for the camera. i guess there was no external battery-adapter to keep the battery warm.

 

[ou1954]

>Posted by michael przewrocki on Sunday, June 01, 2003 - 10:00 am: > >BTW, this is a wonderfull, sturdy camera. In 1990, I carried one in my >backpack during a 3-month geology field >trip in northern Saskatchewan. It >took some of my best pictures that summer! Guillaume yes, and in winter >you will get a lot of troubles with this deep-battery-consumption-camera. >with the pmd-motor-drive there was an >adapter using the motordrives batteries for the camera. i guess there was >no external battery-adapter to keep the battery warm.

I think perhaps the idea for cold weather was to put the external battery inside your clothing to keep it warm. The original catalog shows external battery adapters which have a cable 3 or so ft long for that purpose.

 

[rickd]

re. cold weather battery holder.

Don's exactly right, there is an external battery holder that connects to an insert where the battery normally goes, allowing you to keep it warm (the silver-oxide battery doesn't work as well in the cold as the newer lithium batteries do). I've even got one.

My experience with the RTS in very cold weather (<15 deg F) is that there would be a long lag between tripping the shutter switch and the exposure being taken ("real time"...not). My theory is that the lubrication for either the mirror lockup mechanism or the lens aperture blades would stiffen, slowing down the works. It's been so long ago that I can't recall whether locking the mirror up overcame the problem or not.

Real time operation would always return once the camera warmed up again.

--Rick