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General Flash Questions for Contax G1/G2

I have a G2 with the TLA 200. I find that since the metering is centerweighted, it is important to keep the main subject dead center in order for the fill to come out nicely. What I perfer to do is to set ambient exposure in manual mode and then use the ex comp dial to bracket my flash.
 
There has long been some controversy as to whether the TLA 140 could be controlled independently by the exposure compensation dial. But I remember reading a post on the Contax G list by someone who had tested it with a flash meter and had determined that it is indeed controllable. One limitation is the minimum output from the flash unit. Apparently, it is set at a fairly high level, meaning that on close-up shots, you may still get more exposure than you want. The solution is to place some tissue or gauze over the bulb to lessen the amount of light hitting the subject. Needless to say, this is not a precise method, but it can work.
 
Quoting Robert G: "The solution is to place some tissue or gauze over the bulb to lessen the amount of light hitting the subject. Needless to say, this is not a precise method, but it can work." End Quote

I was talking to a friend about this some time ago, and I understood him to say that doing the above would work on the old flashes and cameras set manually, but that with the newer TTL technology (circa last 10-20 years?) that the flash would simply compensate for the tissue with a higher output because it is taking a reading through the tissue. So while you might spread the output, you're still going to get the same strength of output. Is this logic correct? Flash is my weak point, so I'd appreciate your comments.

-Lynn
 
I have only the 45 and 90, which I use on my G1. I'm not overly-pleased with the rendition of either one, though I do not deny their superiority in test conditions. There seems to be general agreement that the 45 is about as good as a lens for 35mm can get. I don't really have a good handle on what most people mean when they discuss "bokeh", however the CZ lenses I own - both for G and SLR - deliver so much contrast that they tend to "resolve" out-of-focus areas more than I like, even at wider apertures, making the selective-focus effects I like difficult; background detail is rendered too crisply for my purposes. I've looked at lots and lots of G photo submissions, and what I've noticed is that I have a consistent preference for the rendition achieved by the 28 Biogon, and I'm currently frustrated because my budget won't stretch to it, especially just before tax time. Whether it tests at the highest resolution or not seems immaterial, because it happens frequently that I'm drawn to a thumbnail, click on it, admire the photo, check lens used, and it turns out to be the Biogon.
 
Lynn:
That's the beauty of TTL technology! Yes, the flash will compensate and make sure you have the correct exposure. The gauze or bounce will diffuse the light. Although, I've never done this with my G2, I've done this with my other system and have gotten some great results. The combo that works best for me is Tmax 3200 @ E.I. 800 with a bounce flash used. The reason why I chose The 3200 film is becasue of its versatility. I've taken it to low light situations and shot it at E.I. 12800 and then used flash at E.I. 800.
 
Lynn,

Yes, you are quite right - with TTL the sensor will keep pumping the light until it decides that the correct exposure has been reached. Puting a diffuser on will only darken the image if the flash runs out of steam before the correct exposure has been reached.

If however you used Manual and put a diffuser over the flash the results would always be darker.

I use the tops of Fuji slide film boxes or semi - opaque film tubs either whole or cut up to make my diffusers. They work just as good as shop bought ones and they are free. The latter point is important to a Yorkshireman such as myself.......

Clive
 
>[Clive, I am not sure that "the results will always be darker" (with >Manual and a diffuser) really tells the story. If you said that a >wider aperture would be needed when a flash is used with a diffuser, >I could agree. In addition, the use of Manual merely means that you >have to select the aperture, and that selection is more difficult >when you have a diffuser - because you don't know how many stops the >diffuser is absorbing. I must now admit that I have only 2 weeks' >experience with Contax , but I believe that it is similar to the >Olympus OM system. Chris]
 
Chris,

The point we were making is that when you fit a diffuser to a flash that is controlled by the TTL sensor the sensor increases the output to negate the light loss the diffuser causes. Effectively you would get the same exposure whether or not a diffuser was fitted EXCEPT where the output of the flash was insufficiant to overcome the diffuser's reduction.

If you had a GN14 flash and the output required was GN10 then the flash could not overcome the diffuser's light loss of 1 stop and therefore it would result in less flash reaching the subject - 7 as apposed to a required 10. If however the output required was GN7 or less then the amount of flash reaching the subject would be appropriate.

Where you fit a diffuser when using the camera in manual mode then the flash light reaching the subject for a given aperture would be reduced. Some people use diffusers to give a softer flash effect. In order to do this you need to open up the aperture to compensate for the light lost by the diffuser. Sometimes the diffuser is simply used to reduce output from a flash where there is no manual means of doing it as in the TLA140 ex&le given.
 
> Two questions: 1. I have the TLA 200 flash unit that came with my G2 but I have used it only once inside. When I did, it didn't have the ability to fill a normal living room. Can I use the over exposure compensation on the camera body or will the flash sensor negate it?

2. I only shoot B&W with this camera and occassionally need a fill flash out doors. Is there a better flash for me to use that is compatible with the G2 that will give me more punch outside?

Thanks, Dave
 
Hi,

I have a G! and a Vivitar model 285 flash. Is the flash compatible with the G1? Has anyone had experience with this combination? Comment? Suggestions?

Regards,

Dave
 
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