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Film recomendations which film should i use

G

Guest

Kirk's comments about film preference for the G2 are very interesting. I would like to use, for the first time, B&W print film for a trip to some national parks in the U.<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">• know if there is a synergy between film and lens, but I probably will designate the T3 for B&W or use a Nikon with an AF zoom. I'd like to know which B&W print film the members recommend that will give sharp, crisp images and good contrast for landscape photos. Also, is a medium yellow filter a good first choice?

I agree with Kirk's comments about color print film. I use Reala and NPH 400 with my N1 and am very pleased with the results.

Thanks to all for your help.

P.S. Which B&W print film for fsmily photos?
 
G

Guest

Some of my message was deleted in the transmission. It should read:
I would like to use, for the first time, B&W print film for a trip to some national parks in the U.<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">•<font color="ff0000">• know if there is a synergy between film and lens, but I probably will designate the T3 for B&W or a Nikon with an AF zoom. I'd like to know which B&W print film the members recommend that will give sharp, crisp images and good contrast for landscape photos. Also, is a medium yellow filter a good first choice?

Thanks.
?
 
G

Guest

> Some of my message was deleted in the transmission. It should read: > I would like to use, for the first time, B&W print film for a trip to > some national parks in the U. know if there is a synergy between film > and lens, but I probably will designate the T3 for B&W or a Nikon with > an AF zoom. I'd like to know which B&W print film the members > recommend that will give sharp, crisp images and good contrast for > landscape photos. Also, is a medium yellow filter a good first choice?

Diane, I have used my Contax G2 strickly for B&W film. It has never had color film in it. I love the shrapness I get with T400CN and the easy processing C41 but I need to rate it at 200 speed and frequently expose 2 images, 0 and +1 stop. I love the deeper shadow detail and the film has such great latitude.

For true B&W films, I like Tri-X and Tmax 100. I don't like Tmax 400. But whatever you do, developer is the biggest factor. D-76 works best for me. Suggest you photograph the same subject over and over, cut the film in small pieces and develop it different ways to see what works best for you.

BTW, When are you going to the National parks? Maybe I will see you there.

Dave dvalvo@rochester.rr.com
 
G

Guest

David, i´ve been using t400cn for B&W photos, and i love the result, but i´ve found a problem that i still can't work out, i´ts getting better, i mean more B&W, but there is always a blue or brown domination on the final result, did you worked that out ?
 
G

Guest

> Rodrigo Martinelli said:

David, i=B4ve been using t400cn for B&W photos, and i love the result, > but i=B4ve found a problem that i still can't work out, i=B4ts getting > better, i mean more B&W, but there is always a blue or brown > domination on the final result, did you worked that out ?

Rodrigo, what do you mean blue or brown domination? T400CN has a brown m= ask in the support and it is a chromogenic film meaning the image is made from dyes not silv= er. Please describe the problem you are seeing better.

Dave

PS: Someday I hope Kodak will remove the mask so it will print faster and with lower contrast filters.
 
G

Guest

> > David, i=B4ve been using t400cn for B&W photos, and i love the result= ,> but> i=B4ve found a problem that i still can't work out, i=B4ts getting> = better, i> mean more B&W, but there is always a blue or brown> domination on the final> result, did you worked that out ? >

I assume you mean a blue or brown cast on your prints rather than negs? = If so , this is due to your processor not being clued up enough , or not too bothered , to correctly calibrate his machine to produce neutral B&W prints[the machines are geared up for , and expect , colour]. I've never really had satisfactory results unless you pay the extra for the stuff to= be printed on proper B&W paper - one of the reasons I now get my c-41 negs processed commercially and print them digitally myself at home. Having said that , if you are using a decent lab , do take the time to as= k for them to have another go , the results will usually be better , but usually the colour cast is not eliminated on all pics . Steve p.s. Mr moderator its really annoying constantly having to resend message= s to this list due to your over-zealous filters chopping out perfectly innocent words and punctuation .
 
G

Guest

Try to use Kodak Portra 400BW. It solves the color cast problem as Kodak claims that it uses the regular C41 printing profile. I had the same problem with the T400CN films before. And no problem in the Portra film.
 
G

Guest

> Try to use Kodak Portra 400BW. It solves the color cast problem as> Kodak claims that it uses the regular C41 printing profile. I had the> same problem with the T400CN films before. And no problem in the> Portra film.

Thanks for that Albert , I was unaware of that myself despite being an ardent user of Portra 400 B&W!! These days its my film of choice as it scans so beautifully and I get stunning digital prints from it . I will have to try it in a lab to see if Kodak are right , just for interests sake . Steve
 
G

Guest

> Albert, Thanks for that information have you tried any slide film for outdoor night time shooting I am new to all these types of films and cant wait to try them
 
G

Guest

Thanks for that information have you tried any slide film > for outdoor night time shooting I am new to all these types of films> and cant wait to try them

Presumably you mean colour slide film - my favourite is Fuji Provia 100F , sharpest their is and nice colour saturation [but not over the top like Velvia] - for night time shots its good because it is apparently not so susceptible to reciprocity failure as some others . I did some pics of the nightime skyline here recently and got very good results . Steve
 
G

Guest

Noel and Steve,

I was going to say the same thing. For Chrome films, Fuji Prove 100F is my primary choice. Although I most do studio shoots in 4x5 formats with this film. I sometime use Kodak E100VS if I want very saturated color.

The Prove has very large latitude, you can shot, in paper, up to 128 secs without color shift and reciprocity failure (where you need to compensate exposure time). I am not aware of any Kodak chrome films can match that. (I have not checked out the new E100g and E100gx though).

Some people may not aware that the Prove 100F actually is more fine grain than the Velvia 50. And with the Prove 100F, you can push 2 stops or pull 1 stop without color shift (contrast will be affected though). But the Velvia can only be push 1 stop and pull 1/2 stop, not very forgiving. I can't wait to check out the new Velvia 100 coming to the market soon.

Albert
 
G

Guest

If you print T400Cn on B&W paper, you will not have the Brown/Blue color cast. I've been told the problem exsists becasue the printer does not know how to print properly with T400CN negatives.
 
J

jhslater

Member
Printing machines must be claibrated to print each film/paper combination. A lot of labs do not maintain proper process controls. This is why results may not be consistant or poor.

I just shot my first roll of T400CN and had it printed on Kodak Royal color paper with excellent results. Good clean whites, dense blacks and a great grey scale. They hgave a program in their printer for this combination and do a lot of printing for professionals.

I am pleased to know you like the Provia. I am trying this film now, as reccommended by the lab. If I like it I will probably buy 100 rolls as the lab can get me a good price on that quantity.
 
C

chango

Thanks Albert, i think i've seen portra here somewere, if i can find it, i'll try it.
(Too bad i just bought a 40 pack of T400, OPS!)
 
M

muskrat

Member
I've been shooting color prints using reala but after having shot some disappointing pics in Vancouver (perhaps b/c overcast?) I want to know what is a good alternative film that is saturated and good in available light since I do not use flash. I still love reala for sunny days, but those low light situations do not d it justice.
 
C

Chops

Rick,

I would highly recommend Kodak's Portra 400UC. I normally would rate this @320. The grain is as good as advertised; could rival a lot of 100 ISO films. Give it a try, I think you will like it.
 
F

farnborough

Rick,

I have also heard about good results with the Kodak Portra 400. Here in Austria (and as far as I know also in Germany) it is called Kodak Professional Portra 400 BW and is developed in C-41 Color Processors.
I intend to try it out next week.
If anyone has any experience with this film, please let me know.
 
S

swoolf

Well-Known Member
it is called Kodak> Professional Portra 400 BW and is developed in C-41 Color Processors.> I intend to try it out next week.> If anyone has any experience with this film, please let me know.

I use this stuff quite a bit , it is a very good film with decent contrast for a C-41 emulsion . It also scans very nicely which is important to me as a I print digitally . Steve
 
T

traverson

> [

Maybe someone can help me with an advice. I was happy with Kodachrome 64 and 200. What do you think the best available product I can use, now that Kodack has stopped producing it ?

thanks for any suggestion...

]
 
J

jgban

I had also heard very good things about Portra BW. I used it recently and compared it to Ilford XP2 Super (not formal testing, I was just using the G2 with the 21mm for all the pictures during a recent trip to Spain and Portugal). I was curious about chromogenic films. Both films were processed by the same lab in the same batch. Afterwards, I scanned with the Canoscan 4000US using Vuescan.
This may be a significant source of variation, as the films have different colored masks (XP2 looks grey and Portra looks orange).
The scans from XP2 turned out with a wider range of gray (when you check the histograms in Photoshop). Both films are very sharp, and have very fine grain.
Actually, Portra seems to have almost no grain, which (and I never thought I would say this) I actually miss. I like XP2 better (and XP2 is half the price here in the US!).
 
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