MP vs M6

[Craig24]

Sorry Ruben I didn’t answer your question very well.

To get your M6 RF patch to flare badly all you need is a standard l& or ordinary desk l&. Hold your camera close to and at 90 deg to the light, and gradually turn it in toward the light. The first thing you should notice is the frame lines in the view finder get brighter and are coloured yellow by the light if normal tungsten is used. Now concentrate on the RF patch it should also be coloured and as it gets brighter the contrast of the split images drops. By moving the camera around you should easily be able to make the M6 RF patch so bright that no split image can be seen. And there you have it, a bad case of RF flare.

And in response to your observation on the MP, yes the “leather†has a very weird feel at first, almost wet. Think of it as sexy and see how you go. I’d also think about going for an M7, preferably with good (MP) View Finder, before another M6. The MP VF is a definite improvement, and both the original M7 and MP VFs are much brighter than the M6s. The M7 has the same feel as the M6 TTL and you can still use it in exactly the same way as you do your M6. You won’t notice the difference. The only differences I have found are-

The DX code contacts do make the film a little harder to get out.

The M7 on/off switch sort of gets in the way and spoils the ergonomics of the bigger M TTL type dial somewhat.

The stepless shutter in AE is also handy for getting perfect exposures on slide film.

The shutter noise on both the MP and M7 is also much quieter.

Regards craig

 

[bwip]

Craig,

I fully agree with you accept perhaps that TTL causes you to concentrate on the camera, which is why I have changed from Nikon to Leica. It's not faster but fast enough.

I don't feel TTL causes me to concentrate on the camera but what it does for me is it makes me disconnect with the exposure since I have little to no control over it in matrix metering. Because of that I just rely on it and focus on composition and DoF control. With my M7 or M2 I have to be much more aware of the exposure and this has done wonders for my photography. The higher awareness causes me to ensure that the exposure setting is correct for the elements in the picture I want to have properly exposed. This creates more and better exposed shots for me because the Leica requires me to be more involved.

Having said that a good photographer can achieve the same with a auto everything (by putting it on manual) but then what's the point...

 

[Craig24]

Karen

In relation to the M7 VF. A lot of work must have gone into the coating of the prisms etc. One could assume, perhaps incorrectly, that there may have been some stock laying around prior to production of the MP finder. Interesting to see what transpires over time. My replacement M7 is suposed to have the highest s/n for available stocks in this part of the world. I'll let you know how it turns out when it arrives.

regards craig

 

[sonc]

Interesting posts in this thread. I am an M6 user, and I don't find that much problem with flare. I have sat and played with my camera in a place that can generate flare, and I'll say that if you attain flare, you can simply recenter your eye to the eyepiece, and it will vanish. I have also tried, and found the scotch-tape trick to work quite well. That is, you cut a piece of Scotch Magic tape to fit over the ridged window on the front, and press it into the grooves. It does reduce the flare / glare in the VF.

SonC http://www.sonc.com

 

[Craig24]

Just got reports that M7 S/N 2858 XXX behaved in same way as M6 (classic) as regard to flare when tested next to a standard l&.

So one may assume, as Dr Putts indicated, the S/Ns are not a reliable aid when it comes to distinguishing between production sequence and, therefore, types of VF fitted on this camera.

All I can say is that RF flare has been problem for me personally over the years, most notably when using the M4P, M6 and now M7 cameras. The presence of flare when using these particular models has had the effect of disrupting my workflow during shooting sessions.
Just an update for those interested in the M7 flare issue.


Flare has not been an issue with my M3 in particular, nor my M5 cameras for that matter. During use flare can be seen to occur in the M5 on occasions, but the RF patch remains usable except in the most extreme lighting situations. It may be that I’ve become spoiled by the flare free M3 but the M7s propensity to flare up on a regular basis, even when you wouldn’t expect it to, drives me nuts.

I tried all sorts of measures and tricks to minimise RF flare with my M4P, and it is part of the reason I eventually ditched it and never upgraded to the M6. So it looks like a nice silver-chrome 0.85 MP for me. At least until the RF patch flare thing washes through with later M7 production. So please go out and collectively buy up all the old stock so I can be assured of getting a good M7 sooner rather than later.

Craig

PS. Justin, no wry smiles form you please

 

[hektor]

Craig I am doing the same thing and waiting till present stocks of M7 are all sold.

The issue does amuse me nevertheless as if through the lens metering was essential. Take way the TTL and any M3- M5 is as good if not better than the subsequent cameras.

 

[Craig24]

Justin

But the M5s metering user interface is a much informative arrangement for manual TTL photography than that of the LED M6-MP display.

 

[hektor]

Agreed Craig.

That is why I have an M5 and am looking for another. The diodes in the M6 were/are inaccurate, intrusive and insensitive and why I sold mine not long after buying it. The M7 on the otherhand in Auto mode will be fine I hope, rather like a superior Minlota CLE.

Regards,

Justin

 

[msc]

I had a M6 TTL 0,85 with serious flare problems in the range finder. Wi= th minimal back light the range finder dissapeared and it was difficult to=

frame and focus. I changed it last June for a M7 0,58 . Even in serious back light situations now I have no problem. The difference is abysmal. As a second body I have an Hexar RF. Its range finder behaves as my M7.= It is excelent in respect to flare. I like this camera.I wont compare it to the M7 but I think it is very sensible alternative to think about . And yes I had to send it to a good repair man to adjust the focus with Leica lenses as it did not focus correctly. My dealer did it for free b= ut I do not think it is an expensive adjustment.Now it focuses as accurate a= s the M7.

 

[alun]

I am looking for some informed advice. I have been an amateur photographer for 20yrs. My first "serious" camera was a Contax 139 Quartz and I have been loyal to the brand since. I have a Contax N1 and until recently had a G2 with 28,45 and 90mm lenses. The G2 kit was recently stolen and I find myself in possesion of a large insurance cheque. My question is this. Much as I found the G2 system superb it was highly automated and I believe support for the system from Kyocera may not last long. Digital photography is clearly the future of the mass market and therefore the majority of manufacturers. Indeed I suspect that film photography will become a very deliberate and anachronistic activity. Something for the true enthusiast like a classic car. The logic of this has encouraged me to consider replacing my Contax rangefinder with a Leica M series. The discipline of deliberate, considered photograph taking with a precision, manual instrument appeals geatly. Taking the thought process to its logical limit the only appropriate choice is a Leica MP. I would be inclined to get a Summicron 35mm f2 ASPH in the first instance. Which viewfinder is most versatile? I would anticipate wanting a range of lenses from 21mm to 135mm but probably nothing between 35mm and 21mm. Would I therefore be best with a 0.85 viewfinder? I am grateful for all and any advice to someone new to Leica.

Thanks,

Alun.