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Impressions FM3A

My first post on this forum so hope it reads clearly. The MF optics are supposed to be the same as the AF optics. I have the AF 35-70 = 3.3/4.5. It's a true bargain if you know it's limitations. Wide open it is = extremely soft and to be avoided. Stopped down to f8 it becomes a very sharp and usable lens from 35 to 50 and then softens up just a bit at 70. Use it stopped down and you will be very happy with this lens. I have no experience with the SB-27.=20
 
I don't own an SB-27 flash but I'd played with it and my FM3A in a local store and my honest opinion: is an overkill.
First it is too powerfull for the FM3A, too many functions that you won't use in an FM3A. If you are looking for a decent flash with enough power to take pictures at night and plain vanilla TTL, without too many functions that you won't use, go for the SB-22s, it is still in production and has bounce and diffuser,for those worried on redeye or flat shadows.
There is also the inexpensive SB-30, and I recommend it even if you have already a flash,why?, because:
-It will serve you with its down tilt 45 degree as macro flash( range of 0.3 to 1 feet)
-Will provide coverage as wide as 17 mm angle with the diffuser(if memory don't fail)and 28 mm w/o it and act as regular TTL flash with guide of 16/52 at 28 mm and 10/33 at 17 mm.(100 ISO guide)
- Can be used in manual, auto or TTL mode and has +/- 2 EV controls at your choice. The perfect fill flash.
-Not only that, it can be used as a remote wireless slave w/o any device. An IR sensor with a range of 41 m is activated when any Nikon Speedlight Nikon is triggered on the camera. No need of expensives SU-4 wireless slave.A simple plastict isolated flash shoemount brakect from Bogen($4.50)(at my local store)and you can mount the SB-30 as remote in any tripod or light stand. Neat, eh!
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Hello everyone,

Since I have my own FM2 for many years, I am just curious to hear your feedback about the FM3A. Is the FM3A better than the FM2? If so, why? and what difference? Thank you very much in advance.

Sincerely,
Kian-Guan Au
 
In my opinion , yes.
FM2n(late model)
-syn. speed 1/250
-max-shutter speed 1/4000 sec
-all manuall controls with TTL center weigthed metering (60/40 balance); metering range EV 1 to EV 18 (battery powered).The camera will function without batteries but not the meter.
-Bright viewfinder system with aperture, shutter speed and 3-point exposure display (+ O -)
-Depth-of-field preview button
-Nikon F lens mount .
-NOT TTL flash

FM3A:
-Exposure modes:Aperture-Priority Auto; Manual
-Compatible Lenses:Ai, Ai-s, AF-D, AF-S, P -(except IX and G-type Nikkor lenses)
-Metering System: Through-the-lens (TTL) 60/40 centre-weighted full aperture exposure metering system using a pair of SPDs (silicon photodiodes) and metering IC circuit.
-Metering Range: EV 1 to 20 at ISO 100 and with f/1.4 lens (i.e., from 1 sec. at f/1.4 to 1/4000 sec. at f/16)
-Exposure Meter Coupling: AI type
-Exposure Compensation : Exposure compensated in ñ2 EV range, in 1/3 steps
-Auto Exposure Lock : Auto Exposure Lock
-Film Speed Setting : DX: ISO 25-5000 with DX-coded film; manual ISO 12-6400
-Shutter : Vertical-travel, metal, focal plane shutter with aluminium alloy curtains
-Shutter Release : Electronically controlled in A mode and mechanically controlled in M mode; center-threaded shutter release button accepts AR-3 Cable Release; button locked when film advance lever is flush with camera body
-Shutter Speed Range: M Mode-1/4,000 sec. to 1 sec., B (Bulb), A Mode-1/4000 sec. to 8 sec. (stepless control) 14 discreet settings in all
-Sync Contact: X-contact only; flash synchronization up to 1/250 sec.
-Flash Synchronization : Built-in ISO-type hot-shoe; threaded sync cord terminal provided for off-camera or multi-flash photography; synchronisation with electronic flash units at speeds up to 1/250 sec.
-Flash Ready-Light : LED provided; visible inside viewfinder; lights up when SB-28/28DX, SB-27, SB-22s, SB-16B or SB-29 Speedlight Unit used is fully charged; blinks to warn that the shutter speed set is beyond the electronic flash's sync range or for full output warning
-Accessory Shoe : Standard ISO-type hot-shoe contact (sync contact, ready-light contact, TTL auto flash contact, monitor contact, GND), safety lock hole provided
-Self-Timer : Set/cancel mechanical type provided; approx. 4 to 10 sec. duration
-Depth-Of-Field Preview Button : Stops down lens aperture when pressed
-Film Advance: Single-stroke type; 30 degree stand-off angle and 135 degree winding angle
-Film Rewind : Manual via rewind crank
-Motor Drive Coupling: Electrical contact and coupler built in for operation with Motor Drive MD-12; the MD-12 is operable when film advance lever is flush with camera body
-Multiple Exposure : Provided; disengages frame counter for correct count
-Power Source : Choice of one 3V CR-1/3N lithium battery, two 1.55V SR44 silver-oxide batteries, or two 1.5V LR44 alkaline batteries; optional Anti-Cold Battery Holder DB-2 accepting two 1.5V LR6 (AA-type alkaline), 1.2V KR-AA (AA-type NiCd) or 1.5V R6 (AA-type manganese) batteries available
-Exposure Meter Switch: Lightly pressing the shutter release button switches meter on; meter stays on for approx. 16 sec. after finger leaves button, then automatically switches off; meter automatically turned off when shutter speed dial is set to B
-Camera Back : Pops open when the film rewind knob is pulled up; detachable and interchangeable with Data Back MF-16; film cartridge confirmation window provided

To me the main advantage of the FM3A( more like in the the family of the FE2) is the AE,TTL flash and the new hybrid shutter, plus the advantage over the FM2n od DXcode reading and the window that show you what film are you using( no more reminders tabs on the back of the camera, but I hear that the back plates are interchangeableas and some peoples are addapting FM3A back plates to their FM2n).
There's is one reality, being discontinued the FM2n , I opted for the FM3A ,not only for its versality, also because in the future parts will be more accessible in case it needs repair.

Another thing that is that the viewfinder screens(3 types) that are offered with the FM3A are quite more bright than any other in the Nikon line
 
Dear Mr. Armas,

Thank you very much for your opinion and feedback and for your time to type long messages. I agree with you that the FM3A has more advantages than the FM2 and FM2n have. You mentioned that the FM2 camera will function without the batteries but not the meter. So, what about the FM3A?

Thanks,
Kian-Guan Au
 
Dear Kian-Guan Au, you don't have to thank me at all. The only thanks maybe should go to my passion and interest in photography and my particular attention to Nikon manual cameras and lenses, the FM3A in particular.
Regarding your question, yes, the FM3A will perform as the FM2n in this regard. Without batteries or dead batteries it will work but in manual mode only , not AE. There will be not exposure reading, you must relay on a ligthmeter or on the "16 sunny rule".
One of the purposes of the hybrid shutter in the FM3A( electronic/mechanic) is not only to use the electronic one in the AE mode and the mechanical one in the manual mode, but to allow the use of one in AE and while using batteries and the other while there is not batteries and the camera is functioning purelly manual.
 
It seems that most of you use MF lenses instead AF why?

Im planning to buy standard 50mm 1.8lense for my FM3a and in the near future im planning to buy AF body which one should i buy 50mm AF or manual?
 
Legacy in my case. I moved from photojournalism to more commercial gigs in the time of the F3, I found there was no need to move to auto-focus. Medium format was required for a lot of stuff, and 35mm shooting declined. The 28mm PC-Nikkor remained my most used lens, and it still is not available in auto-focus. Due to the nature of its use, it would gain nothing by being autofocus. Same with the 55mm MicroNikkor - product and close-up work give one plenty of time for manual focus.

Were the sports and photojournalistic part of my life to happen now, I probably would move to autofocus lenses. I use autofocus a major part of the time when shooting with my Nikon CP5000, and greatly appreciate it. I also manual focus the CP5k when the shoot demands it. Neither auto or manual is inherently better or worse - it depends upon the lens and the requirements of the shoot.
 
Why not use AF lense on your FM3A? AF lense have futureproof right?
 
Why not use AF lense on your FM3A? AF lense have futureproof right?
 
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