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first impressions D100

> [You could try overexposing by .5 stops. See if that helps. With my D100 there is not that big of a diff. if I set it to overexpose by .5 but some folks have found it helpful.]
 
> [Another thing besides varying the exposure compensation a bit is to vary the curves through Nikon Capture. One place for more info is http://www.jtgraphics.net/all_digital.htm. I've found that underexposure is better than overexposure, but it is a pain to correct all the pics. There is a forum about curves in Nikonians. ] >
 
Gerald A. Cox (Jerryc)

Same with my CP5000 shots, and I am fine with it. Realize that we are shooting slides, even if digitally.

The auto-exposure is biased to protect our highlights. This is good - there is no way to recover detail in a blown out highlight, while a bit of 0,0,0 black in the image is often needed to give the picture "snap".

Interior shots often include windows or light sources that will push the rest of the histogram down. Bright sky - specially overcast sky - will also force the camera to underexpose, since it is protecting the detail in the sky - which is many EV brighter than the ground.

Of course, you can use exposure compensation in auto mode, or go to full manual mode to override the camera entirely. When doing either, constantly check your histogram in playback, to make sure that you are not blowing highlights.

My ideal histogram shows most of the density in the lower 3/4 of the graph. Ideally, the graph should not be touching either the left or the right axis, but far better quality can be extracted with the histogram touching the left than the right.

Aside from the histogram window, the D100 has a display that flashes blown and endangered highlights.

Realise that using auto exposure still takes skill and intelligence to use. It just strives to seek an average, and knows little about the content of the image. Matrix metering has some intelligence, but the photographer must still have much more than the camera.


More on histograms at
http://www.larry-bolch.com/histogram/

More on dealing with contrast ranges beyond the range of photographic materials at
http://www.larry-bolch.com/layers.htm

larry!
http://www.larry-bolch.com/
 
I'm borrowing a friends D100, does anyone know how to aim pics using the playback screen, vice the eyepiece? My friend said it could not be done, anyone else have a suggestion?
 
Shakyone

True fact. The mirror is in the way and there is no work around. I find this a near-deal breaker now that I have become accustomed to seeing the processed image before it is shot.

With the CP5k, I have also become accustomed to a camera sealed against dust, far more mobile, high stealth factor for street shooting and so on.

larry!
 
The LCD view screen only displays captured images, not a real-time view like some other consumer cameras. It is used to verify what was captured and to address the menu.
 
I have purchased 3 used (like new minus)cameras from KEH.com and have found them very liable and no problems(touch wood) with the equipment. I'll let you know after the 3rd reaches me .
 
I got the new/used D100 from KEH and it is working just fine, looks brand new, and the only problem (so far) is that the little light on the front doesn't illuminate in low light (or downright darkness) to help the auto-focus find the subject. I really haven't studied the complete instruction manual, but I imagine it's de-activated. Any quick tips to activate (or de-activate) it? I imagine it could be very intrusive in delicate situations...
 
Take a look at the custom functions to see if there is a setting for the light. Does this camere use two seperate types of batteries like my S2 does? If so, the lithium battery controls the flash and the auto focus light.
 
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