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If anyone can help because ....the only way I find to operate with a pair of old lenses I have, is by setting f1.0 on the camera (original on both lenses is f3.5) and I will like to configure in real aperture.
Bustoner....I don't have any SA mount MF lenses....but I do own an SD14 converted to Nikon-F that I use a lot...I also set my f-stop to 1.0...then I use the lenses aperture ring to adjust it correctly....I don't experience any side affects to my shooting by doing this....but I have to tell you control of the ISO and speed is a little different...depending on which lens I use....
What I did was take the lens...and take a bunch of pictures at every f-stop - ISO - Speed setting I would use...look at the pictures on the computer then adjust my shooting to compensate...
I keep a little note book to help me remember the quirks of every lens...with the different camera's.....
I don't have any scientific way...just trial and error....
I know this does not answer your question...but might give you an idea with your lenses...
I always use manual mode and set the aperture on camera to the same setting the lens is set to...Makes no difference to the exposure or metering but at least the actual aperture I used gets recorded in the EXIF data.
No, you just adjust the aperture to keep the EV reading on the top LCD where you want it, ie you manually control the aperture and exposure as one operation...Simple.
No, you can just adjust the aperture to keep the EV reading on the top LCD where you want it, ie you manually control the aperture and exposure as one operation...Simple.
The beauty of having a DSLR is you can take test shots to gauge the exposure and setting needed to nail it, as many as you like, and delete them once you sussed it out. When your taking a multi shot panorama, being able to manually correct the EV is essential because as you rotate the camera on a tripod the light levels change slightly in each shot and 180 degrees from your first shot you might end up severely under or over exposed if you dont make EV corrections as required.
In most cases it works great and 100% reliable with setting the SD14 aperture setting to f1.0 for correct exposure metering incamera.
I noticed that with some of my older analogue lenses (Tamron with Adaptall Mount) there was sometimes slight overexposure due to wearout/mechanical play in the Adaptall mount. Switched to a less used daptall and again everything works fine.
Also do prefer the A program and adjusting exposure to my liking.
For landscape I also use an external lightmeter/Sekonic which seem to be more and more forgotten by many photographers nowadays, no fiddling in the viewfinder with the camera you just set up your final framing on a tripod and run around measuring with the lightmeter...
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