Hi again Peter!
> Why not try multiple exposures where the cameras DOES control the flash and exposure. Multiply the ISO setting of your film by the number of exposures you want, say, for 4 exposures on one image, that takes ASA 100 to ASA 1600 (that's x4, or 4 stops), and then just let the camera do it's computerized thing for 4 exposures on one frame - completely computerized and accurate!
I am not sure it is correct way - it is does not matter what ISO setting will be (computer in the camera uses this setting to determine which exposure should be).
I did the following actions. First, I set aperture and shutter speed in M mode in order to shutter speed would be approx. 1 sec and meter index displayed "0 position" (so called "recommended exposure").
After this I set 5600HS (D) in multiple flash mode (select flash frequency, for ex&le, 5 Hz (5 flashes per second), select number of flashes "--" value (what means that flashes continue at the set frequency while the shutter is open - it is useful not to think about how many number of flashes should I set and select power level 1/32 (for ex&le)) and took the photo. I know that I need to consider this additional amount of light from 5600, but how? I cannot evaluate a amount/influence of 5 strobo-flashes on 1/32 level of power...
You see, instruction manual of 5600 (page 62) tells (I quote):
"10. Set the shutter speed and aperture.
* The shutter speed is calcualted as follows to suit the selected flash frequency and number of flashes.
Number of flashes (TIME) / Flash frequency (Hz) <= Shutter speed
For ex&le, when ten flashes and 5 Hz are selected, 10/5=2 requires a shutter speed of longer than two seconds."
That is funny. It is nothing mentioned about aperture! It is just aperture should be taken into consideration!
> For wireless remote flash, just change the DISTANCE of each flash to the subject. If you want one flash to have 1/2 the power, make it TWICE farther from the subject than the other flash!
In my opinion, not TWICE farther, but only square root of TWO

Maybe I will use another way - I will set level of power on 1/2 value.
> Finally, try the STF function on your Minolta 7 with live action to see a "strobe" effect - I think STF and flash work together - this can be your experiment to show the world just how smart is the Minolta 7 camera, and just how smart are Minolta 7 Photographers! ;-)
Unfortunately it is impossible because of "camera's STF mode triggers a continuos multiple exposure, it should be used with a tripod {it is almost not admittable in blues club} and a still subject {musicians are not still subjects}" (page 180 of instr. manual) and further - "* Flash DOESN'T fire." So it is another case.
> Let us know how this all turns out, and also show us some pictures somewhere, okay?
Today (precisly tomorrow) I can show you only overexposed pictures - I need to print them, scan and send someway.
Have a nice weekend!
Alex Cherny