The way I understand your question, my answer is:
On the SD14, in Manual Mode:
Select the desired shutter speed by rotating the â€œCâ€ dial. Then hold the +-AV button at the back of the camera to select the desired aperture by rotating the â€œCâ€ dial.
In A mode (priority to Aperture):
Rotating the â€œCâ€ dial will select the Aperture. The camera selects automatically the shutter speed.
In S mode (priority to shutter speed):
Rotating the â€œCâ€ dial will select the shutter speed. The camera selects automatically the aperture.
This is all explained in the SD14 user's manual, from page 37 to 41.
Sounds like your basing your opnions on a few poor quality M42 lenses? Good quality M42 lenses are easily the equal of modern Sigma equivalents, if there are any. For example, my old M42 mount Sigmatel 135mm f1.8 is excellent at f4-f5.6 but it has no modern Sigma equivalent.the aperture 1.0 setting works good in most cases.What I experienced are
other problems even with optically really good fullframe manual lenses:
+ heavy CA (chromatic abberations)
+ often difficult to judge the right focus point with the SD14 matte screen
(esp. in low light situations)
+ lenses are more prone to backlight reflections
(than newer Sigma DG lenses) which decreases
overall image contrast and makes it appear less sharp and soft
+ AF viewfinder indicator often wrong w.manual lenses due to
back or frontfocus shift from manual lens adapter (e.g. M42 ring)
Of course there is...Sigma dont make any lenses faster than f1.4 but I have a 2" f1.0, a 55mm f1.2 and a 85mm f1.2...Impossible speeds to achieve with Sigma lenses.My Conclusions:
stick to newer Sigma DG AF lenses - best quality and usable AF !
no real advantage using expensive Zeiss or comparably excellent manual lenses on a SD14
Use a proper M42-SA adapter instead and you wont have to.You have to keep in mind that M42 lenses are designed for a register of 45.46mm, and the register of sigma SA mount is 44mm. So make sure your adapter is 1mm thick (I do add some washer between my M42/PK adapter and the M42 lense).
Or you can simply use Manual mode as I do. No Sigma DSLR can meter accurately through a manual focus lens so the best solution is to set the camera manually. Setting the camera to M, A, or P mode makes no difference to the exposure when using a manual focus lens but at least by using M mode and setting the aperture on the camera to the same aperture as your lens is set to you make sure that the aperture you actually used for each shot gets recorded in the EXIF data. And there is nothing more annoying at not being able to rembember what aperture you used for a shot when someone asks you what aperture you used. Using A and setting it to f1.0 simply means that the the aperture used is always recorded as f1.0 in the EXIF data!Hi Jeff:
This works for Sigma AF lenses in manual focusing mode, but not for legacy lenses that doesn't have electronics and cannot communicate with the camera. In that case you have to force the aperture in the camera to 1.0, use Av mode and change the aperture manually on the legacy lens.
This is for the Sigma SD14, for the SD9 and SD10 and legacy lenses you have to set the aperture fixed to 5.6.
I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried the Canon AF confirm chips with the SD cameras? The protocols are the same, there have been SD cams converted to EOS mount. Supposedly everything but Image Stabilization worked.
I don't think SD cameras need an AF confirm chip: When focus is achieved, the green led in the viewfinder light up. But, for that to work, you need to first mount a SA auto lens each time you remove the batterie.I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried the Canon AF confirm chips with the SD cameras? The protocols are the same, there have been SD cams converted to EOS mount. Supposedly everything but Image Stabilization worked.
So if the spacing and dimensions of the chip are compatible, perhaps it will be helpful. Either that, or find someone to make a split prism focusing screen. (It was a lifesaver on my 40D with manual lenses.)