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Contax IIIa

I always viewed the III and IIIa as heavy unbalanced and the meter useless until Harry re-did a IIIa for me. Surprise - the IIIa at least is not very much heavier than the IIa and balances quite well. Even more the new meter is very sensitive (good for indoor readings with ASA 400 film) and useful. I never viewed the colored dial versions worth the extra money, as I don't think of a rangefinder camera as the first choice for flash in any event.

Michael Schub
 
The advantage of buying from Henry is huge. I can expect everything on the camera to work - even the meter. I have been leaning toward a IIIa because of the meter. But Michael's point about the flash is good. I'll most likely use my N1 for flash photos. As for the color dial versions, how many extra $$$'s do they run? Any disadvantage of getting one, just in case I want to use a flash at some point?

Thanks for the camera and lens advice, Doug. I need to learn more about these wonderful old cameras! The 50/1.5 Sonnar sounds like a good starting point. Have you posted any shots with the lens? And where is Gandy's site?

Thanks for the feedback.
Robert
 
Further to the discussion generated by Robert's post: when buying, factor in an overhaul by Henry Scherer.
Tom
 
I am considering getting rid of the last interloper in my collection and wondered if anyone would be interested in a swap. It is a Leica Model IIf Red dial – fitted 50mm f2 Leica Summitar Hex-Diaphram lens – Serial No’s: Camera 652126 Lens 980100 - Leica brown leather ERC – All Condition 9++ except for case, where a small part of the stitching on one seam on the top back edge needs redoing above the pop stud. It had a CLA by Camera City in London 18 months ago principally to rectify two minor faults: the rangefinder was marginally out of alignment and the slow speeds were a little sluggish in cold weather. The rangefinder is now spot on (checked by measuring tape) and very bright. The only way you could tell that the camera body is not new is there is a small rubbing mark beside the synchronisation socket (not through the chrome) and the bright chrome on the top of the winder knob is slightly dulled. The lens is a US/UK model with feet measurements. I am looking for a black chrome Contax IIIa with a 50mm f1.5 late, coated, West German Sonnar. The camera must have been recently serviced by Henry Scherer. I would not be interested in anything else. I am happy to have my Leica professionally valued/assessed if anyone has a swap but would expect this to be reciprocated. Wilson
 
The color dials seem to go over twice the price of the black dial as, from a collector's point of view, many less were made (also the possibility of finding a bargain is better with the more common black dial).

Moreover, flash use is possible on the black dial with a $60 adapter (synchro switch #1366). The point is that the earlier camera had a mechanical linkage to fire the flash - not as theoretically good as an purely electrical switch but it works.

I have the adapter for flash bulbs (#1361) but have never used it and have never felt the need to buy the adapter for flash as I have a Contax II with aftermarket flash sync (I know it works but come to think of it I've never used flash on the Contax in any event).

Michael Schub
 
To help prospective buyers, I would like to recommend two excellent sources for Contax cameras: one is PETRAKLA, who offer overhauled pre-war Contax II and III cameras in close to perfect cosmetic and mechanical condition on e-Bay about once every month or two, and Marco Schouten, a classic camera dealer in the Netherlands. The latter deals primarily with Leica cameras, however under OTHER NON-LEICA at http://www.schouten-select.com/Home.html his catalogue at present lists two Contax IIa and several lenses. The prices from both sellers are high, but the quality is excellent. I can recommend Marco Schouten, having bought from him twice.
Tom
 
PETRAKLA are nice and honest people but the repair work is a hobby and the CLA is superficial - nothing like a complete rebuild. I bought a very clean Contax III on EBay cheap ($100) but it was difficult to wind and the slow speeds were all seriously off (useless from 1/50th down). PETRAKLA was willing to take it back but it was more cost effective to send it off to Oleg in Russia for a cheap but cheerful CLA.
 
Michael, thank you for sharing your personal experience. Although I bid in one of their auctions, I have not made any purchases from PETRAKLA. Cameras they offer on eBay that appear in excellent cosmetic and are (according to them) in good mechanical condition, sell in the US$ 600-700 range. Short of examining a camera personally, it apears that the best route is to buy on appearance and factor in an overhaul by Henry Scherer which costs just about the same. Oleg is presently restoring a 1961 KIEV for me; it was my first decent 35mm camera which after fourty years somehow managed to find its way back into me!
 
I have recently seen some cameras that have given me some insight into the nature of a Russian overhaul of a German Contax II or III shutter. There's no need to go into much detail here. Perhaps the best thing for one to do if one has a Contax II or III with a shutter that has been rebuilt in Russia is to send it to an expert for an examination just to make certain it is still completely Contax if this matters to you. Kiev shutters are still being made in Russia and they are extremely cheap and cheaply made. A Kiev shutter will fit in place of a Contax shutter with little modification to the camera. It's quick and easy to just take that old German shuter out and put a nice new Kiev one in. There's virtually no chance of the owner opening the camera to see what has been done to it.
 
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