Hello everyone. I am a new member. I just purchased a used 500 C/M and am looking forward to reacquainting myself with film again. I have gone digital since my days with the Nikon D1X, and been primarily shooting with a Canon 1DsMkII, and 5DMkII. Both excellent cameras, but I have found myself shooting too fast, not enough thinking and composing. Any suggestions as far as accessories are concerned, please share with me. Tri.
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My first ever post
- Thread starter Tri Le
- Start date
terry_dent
Well-Known Member
Welcome Tri. For the kind of work it looks like you do, pick up a 150mm lens for your camera. Newer CF and CFi types are the nicest but any version will do!
polypal
Well-Known Member
Hello Tri,
Welcome at Hasselbladinfo forum.
I second Terry advice.
He is not only right about the lens best suited for this kind of work.
He is also right it does not matter which one you choose as long as its a 150 Sonnar.
There are clean silver 150 Sonnars floating around the globe for around 350 USD.
Find a suitable shade or the even nicer proshade and you are in business.
Paul
View attachment 1354
Not so young any more but still going strong:
500 EL with early 150 silver Sonnar and proshade.
Welcome at Hasselbladinfo forum.
I second Terry advice.
He is not only right about the lens best suited for this kind of work.
He is also right it does not matter which one you choose as long as its a 150 Sonnar.
There are clean silver 150 Sonnars floating around the globe for around 350 USD.
Find a suitable shade or the even nicer proshade and you are in business.
Paul
View attachment 1354
Not so young any more but still going strong:
500 EL with early 150 silver Sonnar and proshade.
Attachments
polypal
Well-Known Member
Prisms do not wear much.
The worst part is paint chipping but that does not influence the performance just the looks.
The earliest prism is a NC2, also available as Kiev prism.
That one goes for 50-100 USD.
KEH often has bargains for these older prisms.
View attachment 1355
EL camera with NC2 prism
Later prisms like the PM 3 or PM 51 do exactly the same job but are more expensive.
The PM 45 is a different one.
That prism has a built in adjustment for users wearing glasses.
That makes the PM 45 a sought after prism and of course more expensive.
The worst part is paint chipping but that does not influence the performance just the looks.
The earliest prism is a NC2, also available as Kiev prism.
That one goes for 50-100 USD.
KEH often has bargains for these older prisms.
View attachment 1355
EL camera with NC2 prism
Later prisms like the PM 3 or PM 51 do exactly the same job but are more expensive.
The PM 45 is a different one.
That prism has a built in adjustment for users wearing glasses.
That makes the PM 45 a sought after prism and of course more expensive.
Attachments
terry_dent
Well-Known Member
Tri, the PM90 prism is OK except for the magnification is only 2X. The PM45 has a 2.5X magnifiction, much easier for me to focus. The slightly older PM or PM5 prisms have a 3X mag. These give the largest viewing image and are my favorite.
Terry
Terry
polypal
Well-Known Member
Good point Terry, Magnification factor.
Tri, I would start with the 150 and see what results you get.
The 250 is often forgotten but is like the 150 an excellent lens.
Depending on the features of the face it can be useful for portraits.
Keep in mind the 250 is not a fast lens at F 5.6 !
Tri, I would start with the 150 and see what results you get.
The 250 is often forgotten but is like the 150 an excellent lens.
Depending on the features of the face it can be useful for portraits.
Keep in mind the 250 is not a fast lens at F 5.6 !
terry_dent
Well-Known Member
mselderhuis
Member
The 10mm extension is good too, the 21 is a bit too much.
polypal
Well-Known Member
Hello Don.
I am lucky to have a good technician who does a good job with these prisms.
He removes the leatherette and disassembles the complete prism.
The paint job is quite straight forward using primer, sanding the primer and applying several coats to finish.
He also cleans the glass elements because they attract a thin layer of dust that makes the prism less clear.
After a final assembly the prism is as good as new.
View attachment 1410
NC 2 rebuilt
I am lucky to have a good technician who does a good job with these prisms.
He removes the leatherette and disassembles the complete prism.
The paint job is quite straight forward using primer, sanding the primer and applying several coats to finish.
He also cleans the glass elements because they attract a thin layer of dust that makes the prism less clear.
After a final assembly the prism is as good as new.
View attachment 1410
NC 2 rebuilt
