Contax N1

[Guest]

I have noticed some slightly overexposed slides coming back in the evaluative metering mode on my N1, ,I have noticed exposure meter is always in most cases 1/3 to 2/3 stop over what average metering would be, I guess what my question would be is why would you use Evaluative mode when you can be more in control of your exposure in the centerweight mode?
Thanks
Rick

 

[Guest]

Rick, I agree that slides can look overexposed. One review I read a while ago at www.photoshot.com said, “Exposures with the test body were consistent, but generous. It would not be possible to say anything was overexposed; the conditions were generally so dull or so contrasty that bracketing was needed. The lens is so contrasty that precise exposure is hard to obtain. The exposure is similar to Minolta or Nikon rather than Canon or Pentax, both of which seem to be set to half a stop less than this standard.”

You may want to re-rate some of the films you use with the N1 – I underexpose most Kodak slide films by 1/3 when using the N1 in auto modes, as I prefer the results when I let the camera make the exposure decisions.

 

[Guest]

Rick:

I found the same thing as you using my N1 and 24-85 with Fuji Provia 100F. Under relatively sunny conditions, matrix will give 0.5-1 stop more exposure than centre-weighted. Gives you better shadow details but of course it can look too bright in sunny areas of the slide - it's a judgement call what you want to use as your standard setting.

 

[Guest]

Rick, just a thought but it may not be your camera at all. Its to my understanding film manufactures are really into marketing, ha, ha. Well specifically, what they rate their film is not always what it truly are. For ex&le my wife recently purchased a brick of ISO 100 chrome. When she went to the lab to test the density, it turned out to actually rate at ISO 25. You can then see how your slides would come out improperly exposed if this were hte case.

 

[Guest]

Gavin is right about the true ISO rating on films. A lot of films are not at their true ISO rating, especially the old films which can be off over 100%. It has a lot to do with marketing. Also, each person or each lab may processing the films differently even though there are guide lines and standard. For ex&le, each person has their own ways to agitate the film in development. So, it is hard to define a true ISO in that regard.

On the other hands, new films are rated very accurately, specially the professional film which gives more consistant result in color balance and exposure accuracy.

Some photographers perfer the slightly under-exposed slides since they look more saturated. It is personal perference. A lot of photographesr spend extensitive time on film testing to fine tune their exposure time and development process to suit thier taste and style.

 

[Guest]

Thank you everyone for their imput, We seem to be always learning.

Rick

 

[Guest]

Can anyone help in the following problem in my N1. After I focus the 24-85 zoom at an object using the 24mm focal length and then zoom in to 85mm, the object is not in focus and when I press the focus button, it refocus again at 85mm.
Does anyone has similar experience with their N1 24-85 system, or this problem is only unique to my N1.
Really appreciate some feedback
George

 

[Guest]

Greetings All,

I am an owner of an M6 and love the camera. However, I would like to add an SLR to the bag.
I would like to ask all of you out there for your thoughts, advice, and recommendations. I have a short list, one is a manual focus, and the others are AF. I realize this is a Contax group, but I have included some non-Contax bodies on the list. I am seeking an SLR, so I will be able to use longer lenses, zoom lenses, and possibly a fill flash.

Here's the list:
Aria
NX
F-100
EOS 3 or 30

Your comments will be most helpful

Regards,

Jim

 

[Guest]

I just bought an N1 and am trying to understand all the controls, particularly the various focus options. In describing the "auto-select" mode, where all five frames are selected the manual says,

"The camera automatically selects the most appropriate of the five focusing frames."

Can anyone clarify this? What rule does the camera use to make this selection?

I note that in the other options in this mode, where only two frames are selected, the manual clearly says the camera chooses the one with the shorter shooting distance. Fair enough. But I would like a clue as to what will happen if I choose all five.

Can anyone comment?

Thanks

 

[Guest]

To Bernard:

you hit the nail on the head - you don't know for sure which point is or will be chosen when you use all five, although it typically is the closest or most contrast-rich object.

I'd stay away from it, just use the central sensor and your thumbs to shift to the other 4 when needed - you'll be a happy c&er. Some features are useless but added because they can do it, no other reason I can think of!