CI Photocommunity

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

Nikon 50mm 18 D

G

Guest

>I have this lens. It is excellent. Perfect. No complaints. > I have a seperate question. What is AI and AIS? Probably a dumb question, but I am new to this forum. >
 
G

Guest

I had this lens, and sold it for the 1.4 model. The 1.8D is made in China, the non-D or pre-D was from Japan. I found the Chinese version to be lacking in build quality. Image quality was pure Nikkor, that is to say outstanding. The 1.4 is 3X the cost new, only 1/3 stop faster, and if it is sharper, I can't really tell. Some of my shooting the extra speed is a help, but it "feels" a little more like a Nikon than the 1.8D did. If looking for image at cost, truth be told, the 1.8D is a good value. The older 1.8 Jap. version at about $50 US a better value.
 
G

Guest

John, appreciate your info. just one silly info, when attaching this lens to say a F65/N65, the aperture setting has to be set to the minimum. During shooting, i suppose the camera will take over in adjusting the aperture size instead of being limited to f/22(min set on the lens) right?
 
G

Guest

I don't own the 65, but I don't think you can use a non-CPU lens on the N65 and get metering. I can on my D1X, and when I use any AI/S lenses on it, I choose the apeture the old fashion way.
 
G

Guest

I just reread my post. DUH!!! We ARE talking about the D, with a cpu. SO, you will set the apeture to the minium setting and engage the little clip that locks it there. The camera will adjust it to whatever setting you select with the cameras controls. Sorry, had a brain fart.
 

max2

New Member
Build quality is good enough for all except for the most demanding situations like those encountered by folks from national geographic! which i believe they have the top gears that are also well padded/prodected by ziplocs for their professional uses! heh.. why imagine the extremes when one's not there? does everyone need a quality suitable for mission to Mars? :p
This Lens is sharp and contrasty! suitable for half body portraits and also landscapes too..
 
J

jpilone

If you want to see how the fstop works on that lens, take the caps off the lens (clean it later, ok?) and set the aperture to f/22. there's a little tab sticking out on the mounting ring on the lens, it's spring loaded, move it and you'll see the fstop blades open right up very easily! That's how your camera changes aperture! I'm not sure how film camera's are, but my D100 has a button to the left of the shutter release that allows me to look through the viewfinder and see the light through that fstop to see if I need to adjust the light (a/k/a metering)
 
J

jpilone

I just purchased this lens myself, it arrived today and I find that it doesn't mount onto my D100 very easily, it goes and works fine, but it's not as smooth engaging as my other lenses.

Any ideas? I checked to make sure I'm not bending the aperture tab, and it's not...
 
J

Jward

Jarrod,

I think this is common to the lens...same experience on my F100 and D100.
John
 
A

algo_rithm

Alan,
I use the 80-400 VR which gives great results at f8-16. Now I'm sure that others will have other opinions, but it's been my experience that if you buy a 200 zoom, when you reach the end of the zoom range you always say to yourself, man I wish it just had a little more. from 80 to about 300 it kicks butt on portraits and at 400 you can get just about anything you need. (and if you can't move closer) The VR lets you shoot as slow as about 1/15 HAND HELD, WOW!!
ED glass....nuf said

AT 5.6 on mine anyway, I get some fringing of the colors toward the outsides. but there are action sets for Photoshop that help minimise that and if you watch how you compose a photo, light on dark and dark on light, you can minimise it or just shoot at f 8 and above. Build is plastic but rugged, wieght is acceptable (I used to carry 45 lb tv news cameras and 35lb vcr and 25 lbs of spare batts.,so I don't listen much to whiney film/digital photographers, when it comes to that)
Sharpness is good to very good above 5.6 best around 11.

For the money I think it's a very good buy especially if you buy used from a non-pro or take advantage of the rebates til jun 30.

Just my opinion and I'm sure orthers will say otherwise, which is fine of course, but just consider each point I made and I think you will come to the same conclusion I did, many lenses in one, with good to very good performance.

have a read
Please, Log in or Register to view URLs content!



Any other questions let me know
b
 
A

algo_rithm

BTW, the 80-400 is *NOT* af-s, it's af-d and the focus capability can suck, loud n slow, but if you look in the gallery here and look in the photo competition area, the last shot (guy on horse) is with the 80-400 at 192mm f6.3. It will give you an idea of how this lens looks. (notice the contrast, light on dark like I mentioned above, next to zero fringing in that shot)
 
A

algo_rithm

Also, I can't really comment on a 200 zoom, because I've never owned one. But I gave my perspective on telephoto zooms and why. The 400 was my first zoom ever. I've always used prime lenses to get the job done. I do own one other zoom it's the 24-120VR zoom. One other might be bought this week, the 12-24 DX.

Sorry about the multi part message, but I have about 6 things going at once right now, I think that's it for the question though.

Here's another good link
Please, Log in or Register to view URLs content!
 

alexey_l

New Member
What about 50mm/1.8D focusing? Is it noisy? Does some outer elements rotate while auto-focusing? Is if fast enough?
 
Top