Polarizer filter for g2

H

htree1

I am new to the G2 family, this forum and would like to know how to use a polarizer filter with my G-2. I shoot lots of scenics with skys. I am new to Rangefinders. Any advice, tips or help on how to use this camera would be welcome and appreciated. I have crossed over from Nikon.
Thanks
Howard
 

reodds

New Member
Welcome to the family Howard! The best way to use a polarizer on the G2 is to notice that most filters have a small white dot on the rotating part of the filter. As long as the sun is overhead, just point the dot to sun to get the maximum glare reduction. Another way is to get a second filter, look through it to get the desired effect, and copy the "dot" setting on the cameras' filter.
Roger
 
P

picturetaker

There is a very pricey polfilter from Leica desinged for the M wich also is suitable for the Contax G2.
You can see through the finder adjust the filter setting and fold it over the Lense and shot.
You also could make very easy something by your self, you also could use a non circular Polfilter.
 

erichard44

Active Member
Actually, an easy and quick way to use the polarizer is to the watch the exposure, and shoot when the exposure is increased, as this will indicate when the least input from the sky occurs.

One can use this to maximize the effect, or not.

I frankly find trying to put the polarizer on the camera after looking through it terribly cumbersome, and the Leica approach wildly expensive. In the end it amounts to not using the polarizer.
 

smartrav

Well-Known Member
I have tried looking trough the viewfinder at the exposure meter to find the right position for a polarizer but that doesn't work. One would think so but it dosen't for me on my G2. Best I have been able to do is look through the filter; determine maximum angle; and try to duplicate that angle on the camera after the filter is screwed tightly on the lens.
 

smartrav

Well-Known Member
Art, Have you used filterview made by photoquip successfully with the G2? Does it get in the way of the autofocus system> Or do you need to focus first
 

artie

Member
I focus manually with this as the 77mm filter gets in the way. The nice thing about this is that I can use my 77mm Singh-ray gold and blue filter which really adds some nice effects to landscapes. Some of my other lenses use the 77mm. Give it a try it only costs about $100.00.

Art
 
H

htree1

To All;
Thanks for the great welcome and response.
You've all have been wonderful. The white dot pointing to the Sun....Rodger that is good and..useful. I should have remember...(Filters class 101).
I am also following the "Filterview' link suggested by Artie. Now it's time to go make art...smile.
PS Where is the best place to buy filters, lens hoods and accessories?
Let me know.
Htree1@charter.net
West Virginia is beautiful in the Spring.
Howard
 
J

jcder

I have 2 pol filters, after experimenting with just the one I decided to by a simalar one and copy the settings.
 

myrra

Member
Me and my girlfiriend use pol. filters which I equipped with a strip of scaled paper. I decided to make 0 (zero) position in place of maximum effect during the noon, so I cover about 180 degrees. We use it outside, look what is on top, mount on camera, turn to the same position and shoot.
Guessing from exposure information doesn't always work.
Hmmm, idea with dot directed to the sun is interesting... I have to think about it.

Myrra
 

robgo2

Active Member
I have used the light meter method to great effect. Simply watch the meter in the viewfinder as the polarizing filter is rotated. As shutter speed slows, polarization is occuring. It is important to note that not all scenes have significant polarized light. Polarization is maximum when you are aiming at 90 degrees to the sun and minimum when aiming parallel to the sun. Thus, if the sun is in the west and you are aiming to the west or east, do not expect to get much effect from a polarizing filter. The same is true on cloudy days and when the sun is directly overhead.

Not being able to observe directly the darkening through the viewfinder, as with an SLR, does make the process a bit of guesswork. Sometimes, maximum polarization renders sky or water unnaturally dark, but you cannot know that when using an indirect method. Therefore, it may be useful to "bracket" the polarization, much as you would with an exposure compensation dial.
 

jsmisc

Well-Known Member
I haven't tried it yet although I propose to, but I would have thought that using a separate secondary filter held to the eye and then transferring the positioning to the one on the camera, would also allow you to place the secondary filter in front of the viewfinder and view the effect.
 
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