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Xh2s got better results

fotoword

Active Member
I watched this yt from a new xh2s user and he suggested some tweaks to the settings for birds in branches which included using the small focus point and increasing the available focus points to the maximum as well as using setting 2 for the Focus options settings.

Anyway, I used that for my birds in flight and in this instance I was able to capture a lot more in-focus sequences with either the sky or a distracting background.

I also got better focused images of birds that were small in the frame.
This is a link to the video of you're interested:


A few images from the day with the XH2s and xf100-400
IMG_20230407_174617_515.jpg
DSCF9985.jpg
  • FUJIFILM - X-H2S
  • XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
  • 400.0 mm
  • ƒ/5.6
  • 1/500 sec
  • Pattern
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 2000
DSCF9461 1.jpg
DSCF9462 1.jpg


Next opportunity I will try again and see if I can repeat the result

Thanks
Paul
 
Hi fotoword.

Interesting. His reasoning to use 425 points with focus point instead 117 points sounds plausible.

And nice - now we have comparable term to BIF (birds in flight): BIB - birds in bush :)

Which setting did you use for your tests for birds in flight: his BIB setting or his BIF-flying-towards-camera setting?
And which focus area did you use? Also point or a zone? Which size?

Thank you.
 
Hi Michael
Thanks for the reply.
I guess the yt guy is experimenting as well.
I tried his bif settings but was getting the usual blurry results. So I worked with the bib settings instead.
Focus area, I used the single point, 2nd smallest size.

I used full manual and adjusted settings as necessary.

I shot raw only.

Turned off exposure based on selected area.

Wb set to cloudy.

I'll provide better details later as it's Sunday morning here In Australia and the family is coming over shortly

Cheers
Paul
 
Hi Michael
Thanks for the reply.
I guess the yt guy is experimenting as well.
I tried his bif settings but was getting the usual blurry results. So I worked with the bib settings instead.
Focus area, I used the single point, 2nd smallest size.

I used full manual and adjusted settings as necessary.

I shot raw only.

Turned off exposure based on selected area.

Wb set to cloudy.

I'll provide better details later as it's Sunday morning here In Australia and the family is coming over shortly

Cheers
Paul
Here's a list of some of my settings for BIB which I'm using for BIF
IQ menu:
Raw only
Lossless
WB Cloudy (or whatever you prefer other than auto)

AFMF menu:
Focus areas -Single point 3rd smallest point
Focus mode -AFC
Focus mode - All -
AF Custom settings - 2 - Ignore obstacles
Number of focus points: 425
Pre-AF - Off
Subject detect -Bird
AF+MF -On (but I will turn this off)
Release/Focus priority -Focus
Touch screen Off (I keep the LCD closed)

Camera Menu:
Shutter Type ES
IS Mode Continuous
ISO Sensitivity - Auto 3 up to 12800 (but I changed it to manual ISO for that session and I will probably keep using manual as I get a better result mostly than what the camera selects)

Screen Setup menu:
Image Disp -Off
Preview Exp /WB in Manual mode - Preview Exp./WB
Natural live view-Off

Power Management menu:
Performance -Boost
Evf/LCD Boost Setting -240P Equiv

I'm using a 256mb cfexpress card
I now set FPS: to 40 and I do not use bbf (back button focus). I usually feather the shutter as needed.

I think the 425 focus points as the guy in the video explained it may allow more latitude for focusing on the subjects eye.

User Morris0 on Dpreview had a lot of settings on the Fred Miranda site and I used those to start with.

Morris is a very good BIF photographer and very helpful.

So, the above is what I'm trying at the moment but I'm a casual shooter at best and when I get out I don't get more than an hour or 2.

Let me know what works for you.

Cheers
Paul
 
Hi Paul.

I have nearly the same settings, except

For BIB:
  • I use single-shot, not 40 fps
  • Single point, size 1
  • For very stable birds, I switch to AF-S
  • I keep AF/MF=on, to have manual focus override.
    Be aware that AF/MF=on switches the camera into Release Priority (regardless what whether you still habe Focus Priority in the settings)
  • This works quite good, though I very often use AF manual override, partially just to check autofocus.
    For this, I have MF Assist = yellow dots and Focus Check = on
  • With AF-S, this manual override is a joy and very fast: half-press, fingertip the lens's focus ring, the EVF magnifies and shows with yellow dots where the focus plane is.
    If needed, adjust with the focus ring. Full-Press.
    (With AF-C it's the same, except you have no magnification)
  • With this setting, I am satisfied - meaning I have high percentage of keepers.
    But not because of bird detection, but because I am quite good in manual override.
    The bird detection helps to locate the bird in the frame and direct the focus area to it.

For BIF:
  • 5x5 zone. (I am not trained enough to be able to follow birds with 3x3.)
  • 30 fps or 40 fps
  • I use Morris' AF-C custom setting: 4-1-Center
  • Success is medium - I am really lousy in following birds.
    Other than for BIB, I have no intuitive, unconscious, automatic habit - instead I always need to think, loose the birds etc.
    So training needed.
But today, I managed to follow some swallows. Despite their erratical turns, I had many keepers.
2023-04-09_abbenroth-04.jpg
  • FUJIFILM - X-H2S
  • XF150-600mmF5.6-8 R LM OIS WR
  • 305.2 mm
  • ƒ/9
  • 1/800 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • -0.3
  • ISO 320
 
Great shot of the swallow!
I've found it difficult to keep birds in the frame but swallows and the like are in another level.

I still haven't had an opportunity to get back to birds.

I did shoot some animals at the local Easter Show and the animal eye detect worked well.
It performed quite well with the horses during the show jumping (dressage?).

I was using my fringer pro 2 with a Canon 55-250 and overall it was good.
White horses seemed harder to focus on oddly enough.
Occasionally the camera would fail to lock focus and I'd miss a sequence but I think that's something to do with the fringer.

I've held off getting the 70-300 because I have the above combo but maybe it's time to get the Fuji but probably down the track.

Cheers
Paul
 
Hi
I think the autofocus is very good with the settings I mentioned above and probably just as good with whatever settings you found worked for you.
I shoot manual so I can control everything now.
I usually set the aperture wide open and forget it. Shutter speed I vary so I can use the lowest iso setting and still get a good exposure
I use the up/down buttons for Iso settings. I am getting used to it but it takes time.

A couple of black and white bird images. The Egret was prior to my settings change and still was very good.


DSCF9581_cr_BW.jpg


P3122132_cr_BW.png


And a colour one too:
DSCF4804.jpg


Thoughts and comments welcome

Cheers
Paul
 
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