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Zeiss F8 Mirotar

Hi Rick,

Be careful about the vibration problem if the shutter speed is below 1/125 even on a tripot. Try to fix the camera body on the tripot rather than using the lens collar. You'll find that this will reduce the vibration caused by the mirror flap and even the shutter release.

Simon
 
>Do you find that the split focus or microprism ring blacks out in the >viewfinder using this lens?

Yes, I have to move around very carefully to see it 'not blacked out' but it is a problem.

>I'm considering a matte gridded screen (FU-6) and was wondering >whether it might help with focusing this lens (I like the grid > for WA work).

Would love to hear how you get on with it, is it as easy to focus accurately with the matte screen as the split screen?

>I was interested to see that they didn't put DOF marks on the lens. I >wonder whether that's related to the accommodation for heat expansion >(the explanation for why it can be focused "beyond" infinity). I'll >have to devise my own chart, as at close range the DOF must be pretty >shallow, even at f/8.

I think the focus beyond infinity which my VS 80-200 also does is definately for this reason. The lack of a DOF marks in my opinion is because the DOF is so shallow that you pretty much focus on your subject matter and if you require say infinity and a bit infront you pretty much do it in the viewfinder. As soon as you focus back from infinity it goes soft, so you really have to just choose your piont of focus, since you are seeing what you get since you are effectively wide open. If there were DOF markings they would be very close indeed to the focus marking. I find DOF scales progressively more useful the wider the lens and the smaller the aperture, the two cases where I dont even consider it are with this lens, or when I'm doing portraiture wide open say with a 100/2 lens.

>Can't wait to take it out this weekend!

I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised, what you see in the view finder is a pale representation of what you get on the slide, I still get more than I expect back. Will be great to hear how you get on!

Cheers,

Art.
 
Thanks all, for your further posts and tips. They're very helpful.

I ran the DOF numbers yesterday using one of the many on-line DOF calculators. No wonder there are no DOF marks on the lens--holy cow, those are shallow DOFs! Using a COC of 0.025mm, the hyperfocal distance is 4,100 feet. Focused at 100 feet, the DOF is 4.88 feet, and at the minimum distance of 15 feet, it's a little more than an inch. I guess I should know when a subject is in focus :)

Art: I've used a GG+grid screen on my RTS I in the past, and found that it worked very well with the 50 1.4 and even the 85 1.4. So, even though I got it for WA and copy stand work, I installed it and never again used the standard screen. But I expect that the 500 is going to present much more of a challange, due to the dim viewfinder.

--Rick
 
The Mirotar 500/8 is a relatively new design (1997) and its resolution and contrast are outstanding right into the edges. Its light fall off at the edges is exceptionally low at the edges. I have used mine regularly and acquired focusing skills that is important for this kind of lenses. I fall in love with it the moment I got my pictures back. According to a Zeiss optical engineer who I know, the mirror can surpass the performance of conventional telephoto lenses without the use of low dispersion glass because of its lack of chromatic abbreviation in the reflex design. Contrary to popular misconception, the secondary obstruction by the "hole" of the mangin mirror doesn't lower its contrast and sharpness because photographic mirror is not used at the defraction limits like astrononmical telecopes do.

Here are my personal suggestions for the use of Mirotar in order to get pin-sharp images:

1) Use ISO 400 films and shutter speed faster than 1/500 when handheld. Use a monopod or tripod if possible. I do not think mirror lock-up can make a big difference.

2) It takes much practice to focus this type of lenses. I had captured sharp pictures of birds and aircraft in flight with mirror lens. Usually I use focus "bracketing" to take the same shoot three times with very small focus adjustments.

3) Use it under sunny conditions, the rate of success improves significantly.

4) dougnut rings do not always appear in the pictures. It tends to show up in background with grass and trees..out of focus highlights.It can add to the artistic expressions of the pictures or cause a bit of distraction.

The beauty of mirror lense is that it is so short, light and discreet that no-one would pay much attention to your lense; and it is ideal for candid shoots at a great distance or travel light.
 
I can't agree that mirror lock-up makes no difference. It's of prime importance especially for such long focal length lens. Even with ISO400 film, you cannot always have 1/500 sec at f8. If you've to shoot at lower speed on a tripot, you need to lock-up or pre-flap the mirror to reduce vibration. BTW, a good camera body with sufficient mass, such as the AX, will certainly help.
 
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