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Exposure issues on N1

hobbsr

Member
Hi,

I have just got a demo N1 body from B&H using it with the 70-200, 50 and 17-35mm lens. I am experiencing over exposed images? in all different kinds of light. Only one set of shots taken indoors with window light have turned out well.

Can anyone tell me if this is an issue when shooting in matrix? and should I be using one of the other modes to correct this problem? Any advice would be great.
 
Rodney,

I tend to shoot my N1 at -1 compensation most of the time. I feel it gives me an exposure that works a bit better for me. That is in Matrix mode.

Kent >
 
Hi Kent,

Thanks for that, when do you not do that as it what type of light or situation? I found even in low contrast it is a problem.

Thanks
 
I use it whenever I am in Matrix, except in flash situations. In center weighted I go back to "0".

How do you find your autofocus thus far? does it seem to be "on the mark" or do you make manual adjustments after it finishes it's focusing? >
 
Hi Rodney,

it depends on the film you are using and how you "hold" the camera when using matrix metering.

Every camera model (RX, RTS, N1 etc.) - also with other brands - has a different kind of internal "calculation" when it comes down to Matrix, CWM or spot. So it is advisable to "test" every new camera with a film that you are used to with other cameras and make some test shots.

Secondly the Matrix metering in the N1 is a 5 segment metering. 4 at each corner and one in the middle. Look in the manual for that. The middle one gets obviously the most attention in the computer calculation. Depending on how you hold the camera while metering, it can happen, that you have too dark areas in the middle compared to the 4 outer segments. In that case either a CWM with a correction or a spot metering would be better. Or - if you are lazy like me - you just shift the N1 slightly before metering, so that the center is not that much different from the other 4 segments in terms of light

To give you an indication: I use i.e. the N1 with Velvia 50 at ISO 50, but formerly with my RTSIII at ISO 40. Fuji Provia 100F I use in 95% of the cases at ISO 160. I made one testroll also with the new Velvia 100F at ISO 160. Worked in most cases very well. I shoot 90% of the time in Matrix metering mode. If you set the ISO setting right after you loaded the film, you save time in fast situation and do not need to correct that much anymore on a case by case basis..
 
Hi Rodney, Use the Matrix mode specially in fast situations, The spotmetering mode however is an excellent tool, look for a point with a average light reflection, lock the metering with the Powerswitch on AE lock, compose your subject and make after that your picture. Notice that your are metering the reflecting light, for ex&le white reflects a lot of light and black just a little. An other way: use the spotmetering to find the darkest point and the lightest point and choose the metering between. However in difficult light conditions, it is always better to use a lightmeter because you are metering the light that falls on your subject and not the light that your subject reflects. Succes, Mathijs
 
I found the N1 has one of the best metering in any challenging situations. I shot slide most of the time with the N1 and the exposure was right on. When I shoot negative, I usually over-expose for better shadow detail.

As a side note: the 24-85 is one of the best all-around zoom. Check it out if you could.

B&H is selling the N1 + 24/85 zoom for less than $800 (out of stock now.) It is less than a third I paid for mine.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=375276&is=USA
 
Hi,

Two more questions:
1. On film I am now using mainly Fuji Astia 100F so Dirk you would advise that setting 160 ISO and then shooting generally at meter as read should assist in getting better exposure? If I understand this correct this is as shooting -1 stop?

2. If I do not do this but set the top dial to -1 stop can I still then use the ABC auto-bracketing feature and be shooting correctly as in if I use ABC for +1 & -1 then if fact I am shooting -2 from what the normal meter reading was and +1 will be meter as read?

Thansk for your help as really need to get this right going on a internation trip and not sure if to take the N1 or use the G2 as never had an issue with it.
 
1. Generally, when you shoot chrome, you set the ISO to exact value. I have shot tons of Provia 100F at ISO 100. Please keep in mind, you need to know how to use meter. Reflective meter give you 18% grey. So your exposure affected by many factors, lighting condition, contrast, color of your subject, etc. When shooting negative, you can rate your ISO according to the situation, and push and pull the film development base on the contrast. It falls into "expose the detail, develop for the hi-lite" and a little bit of the zone system. In shot, there is no one size fit all type of setting. N1 has great metering system, but can't expect to use it as a point and shoot with one setting, one metering mode. Sometime you need to use AE lock, sometime you need to use spot meter, or to set the compensation. Sorry if I confuse the issue and offer not much of help.

2. For me, I bracket chrome in 1/3 stop. Negative in 1 stop. If not sure, I bracket more. I use a light meter, so I don't really need to bracket when I am comfortable with the lighting situation. For portrait, people usually don't bracket, use snip test instead.

I traveled with my N1 to many countries around the world. I love it. Never use the G2 before, so no opinion on that. Now, I only travel with my dSLRs to aviod any x-ray or film inspection issues.

Boy, I am glad that I can use histogram with my dSLRs. I know, I am getting sloppy.
 
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