M
mike_nunan
Hi Rick,
Just to add to the sound advice offered by the previous posters (I can certainly confirm John's statement that a lot of shadow areas will inevitably reproduce as pure black) I would also make a couple of suggestions regarding film. If you're shooting B&W, then Ilford Delta 3200 is worth a try, as the grain seems a bit tighter than TMax 3200 in most cases. If you can shoot at 1600 then do so, as the grain looks a lot cleaner at that speed compared to 3200. If you are home-processing, then consider using a two-bath or compensating developer formula such as Emofin. I haven't tried this myself, but I've seen glowing recommendations for Fuji Neopan 400 in Emofin which gives an effective 1000 speed. (Neopan 400 is normally considered a contrasty film, but the compensating effect of Emofin counteracts that.) At a guess, Neopan 1600 in Emofin might be a good way to get the speed you want without too much contrast and lost shadows.
If you are shooting colour, I can highly recommend uprating Fuji Provia 400F. This stuff is amazing, I've shot it at 3200 and while the grain size is large, it is still perfectly usable even in 35mm. A pro friend of mine tells me he's used it at 6400 before now with usable results. Of course, you will get serious contrast, so only the directly lit parts of the subject will show up above the black background. The only other drawback is the expense; this stuff must have platinum in it, not silver, considering the price Fuji charge for it.
HTH
-= mike =-
Just to add to the sound advice offered by the previous posters (I can certainly confirm John's statement that a lot of shadow areas will inevitably reproduce as pure black) I would also make a couple of suggestions regarding film. If you're shooting B&W, then Ilford Delta 3200 is worth a try, as the grain seems a bit tighter than TMax 3200 in most cases. If you can shoot at 1600 then do so, as the grain looks a lot cleaner at that speed compared to 3200. If you are home-processing, then consider using a two-bath or compensating developer formula such as Emofin. I haven't tried this myself, but I've seen glowing recommendations for Fuji Neopan 400 in Emofin which gives an effective 1000 speed. (Neopan 400 is normally considered a contrasty film, but the compensating effect of Emofin counteracts that.) At a guess, Neopan 1600 in Emofin might be a good way to get the speed you want without too much contrast and lost shadows.
If you are shooting colour, I can highly recommend uprating Fuji Provia 400F. This stuff is amazing, I've shot it at 3200 and while the grain size is large, it is still perfectly usable even in 35mm. A pro friend of mine tells me he's used it at 6400 before now with usable results. Of course, you will get serious contrast, so only the directly lit parts of the subject will show up above the black background. The only other drawback is the expense; this stuff must have platinum in it, not silver, considering the price Fuji charge for it.
HTH
-= mike =-