luxborealis
Member
> I strongly suggest you use the E-1 just as you did the OM-4 - aperture > priority - but use (or at least try) the ESP metering with the E-1 - > it is excellent.
As was said previously, expose as you would for slide film. The histogram is important to check to ensure you have not blown out the highlights, BUT, it is not perfect in that sometimes there are too few pixels registered at the highlight end to show up in the histogram.
As a former OM-4 user and one who still uses spot metering for 4x5 work, I haven't in the past trusted camera light meters. However, I am now fully trustworthy of the ESP metering in the E-1 - under almost all circumstances it prevents the highlights from being overexposed. I am continually amazed at how well it does. If anything, it slightly underexposes the rest of the image and I often need to brighten up the middle tones slightly using Curves in Photoshop.
the sooner you learn a bit of Photoshop, the better able you will be to improve your results over those from the film era. An excellent resource for learning Photoshop is Photoshop for Digital Photographers by Bruce Fraser (Peach Pit Press)- it has been a veritable bible on technique with plenty of screen shots and diagrams. It's companion "Camera Raw with Adobe Photoshop CS" is equally helpful when you want to pursue Raw images.
Among other advantages, you can extract about 1 extra stop of information from the highlights in Raw images as compared to jpeg images. Also, Fraser's book gives you some great info about Raw image workflow to reduce the time it takes to make active use of Raw images. With Photoshop File Browser, Raw images are not the pain they used to be.
Cheers, and happy shooting.
As was said previously, expose as you would for slide film. The histogram is important to check to ensure you have not blown out the highlights, BUT, it is not perfect in that sometimes there are too few pixels registered at the highlight end to show up in the histogram.
As a former OM-4 user and one who still uses spot metering for 4x5 work, I haven't in the past trusted camera light meters. However, I am now fully trustworthy of the ESP metering in the E-1 - under almost all circumstances it prevents the highlights from being overexposed. I am continually amazed at how well it does. If anything, it slightly underexposes the rest of the image and I often need to brighten up the middle tones slightly using Curves in Photoshop.
the sooner you learn a bit of Photoshop, the better able you will be to improve your results over those from the film era. An excellent resource for learning Photoshop is Photoshop for Digital Photographers by Bruce Fraser (Peach Pit Press)- it has been a veritable bible on technique with plenty of screen shots and diagrams. It's companion "Camera Raw with Adobe Photoshop CS" is equally helpful when you want to pursue Raw images.
Among other advantages, you can extract about 1 extra stop of information from the highlights in Raw images as compared to jpeg images. Also, Fraser's book gives you some great info about Raw image workflow to reduce the time it takes to make active use of Raw images. With Photoshop File Browser, Raw images are not the pain they used to be.
Cheers, and happy shooting.
