I just got my C740 and noticed when I take pictures outside instead of showing the grass as a dark green it turns it black in the landscape setting. Also, in the automatic setting when most of my picture was in shade it turned the grass in shade a proper color but the grass in the sun was a really bright green. Not normal. I thought it would act like any point and shoot but doesn't seem to do that. So far I am not happy with this camera. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Sunlight and shade
- Thread starter char23
- Start date
sevensister
Member
Extreme light condition will fool the white balance meter of the digcam. Please try the custom white balance to get the correct colour temperture
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P&S film camera don't have colour temp. problem because it can be correct by D&P shop.
P&S film camera don't have colour temp. problem because it can be correct by D&P shop.
D
dark_mist
G'day Elizabeth
There are a few reasons for the problem you describe.
Firstly the camera manufacturers seem to believe that people want "punchier" colours so they tend to set the default colour saturation quite high on their cameras. If your camera allows adjustment of the saturation try reducing it to see if you find the results more pleasing.
Secondly what manufacturers and retailers all know but don't tell potential customers is that digital cameras cant capture as broad a range of tones as film. Colour negative film can capture more detail in bright and shadow areas than digital sensors or even slide film for that matter. You will always get best results if you take your pictures in lower contrast conditions. Alternatively, you can adjust the contrast stting on your camera or even better make two exposures 1 for the highlights and one for the shadows and merge them in your image editing software.
Lastly, the JPEG format always degrades images to some degree. If you want to use JPEG always use the lowest compression (the highest quality setting)to reduce the colour bleeds and loss of definition. It is tempting to use the higher compression settings so you can fit more shots on your memory card but unless you are just going to email them it's not worth the poor image quality.
Despite what the retailers and advertising tell you to get really good images from digital cameras you do need to edit the images using software. Some require very little touching up but you can also rescue shots that look terrible at first. Obviously it's better to get the best shot you can to start with.
I use a high end digital SLR and it's extremely rare I can print an image without some manipulation in photoshop. Unfortunately the manufacturers are creating false expectations by making cameras and printers that allow direct printing without a pc. As the previous poster said, your local mini lab would always have made some adjustments to your photographic prints. You can sometimes see the colour filter and exposure adjustments printed on the back of your photos.
The best advice I can give you is to persevere, take the camera off auto and learn to use the various settings. Only you know what result you want the camera will always just use an average setting.
Good Luck
Col
There are a few reasons for the problem you describe.
Firstly the camera manufacturers seem to believe that people want "punchier" colours so they tend to set the default colour saturation quite high on their cameras. If your camera allows adjustment of the saturation try reducing it to see if you find the results more pleasing.
Secondly what manufacturers and retailers all know but don't tell potential customers is that digital cameras cant capture as broad a range of tones as film. Colour negative film can capture more detail in bright and shadow areas than digital sensors or even slide film for that matter. You will always get best results if you take your pictures in lower contrast conditions. Alternatively, you can adjust the contrast stting on your camera or even better make two exposures 1 for the highlights and one for the shadows and merge them in your image editing software.
Lastly, the JPEG format always degrades images to some degree. If you want to use JPEG always use the lowest compression (the highest quality setting)to reduce the colour bleeds and loss of definition. It is tempting to use the higher compression settings so you can fit more shots on your memory card but unless you are just going to email them it's not worth the poor image quality.
Despite what the retailers and advertising tell you to get really good images from digital cameras you do need to edit the images using software. Some require very little touching up but you can also rescue shots that look terrible at first. Obviously it's better to get the best shot you can to start with.
I use a high end digital SLR and it's extremely rare I can print an image without some manipulation in photoshop. Unfortunately the manufacturers are creating false expectations by making cameras and printers that allow direct printing without a pc. As the previous poster said, your local mini lab would always have made some adjustments to your photographic prints. You can sometimes see the colour filter and exposure adjustments printed on the back of your photos.
The best advice I can give you is to persevere, take the camera off auto and learn to use the various settings. Only you know what result you want the camera will always just use an average setting.
Good Luck
Col
Before having a digicam -in my case, a c5050zoom- i've used lots of slide films. Comparing results of a slide film and the digicam, I've noticed that both have similar contrast. it's easy to obtain the effect you have described, or shadows too dark or ligths too clear.
The solution is to expose for lights, even the dark objects appear too dark. You can correct the contrast with photoshop or your preferred image editor. The ccd register enough information in dark objects to make them lighter via image editing.
If you are not sure what exposure is the best, take different photos with different exposures and can choose the best. with digicam, you have zero cost in film and developing... if you have a computer at home.
Cheers
The solution is to expose for lights, even the dark objects appear too dark. You can correct the contrast with photoshop or your preferred image editor. The ccd register enough information in dark objects to make them lighter via image editing.
If you are not sure what exposure is the best, take different photos with different exposures and can choose the best. with digicam, you have zero cost in film and developing... if you have a computer at home.
Cheers
Thanks for all your replies. I have in some instances used my graphics program to adjust the color. Also the software supplied with my camera worked for some pictures. I'll have to learn more about what adjustments I can make with the camera itself. Thanks again.
I did get some really great pictures of sky and clouds and branches during the winter. The best I ever got.
I did get some really great pictures of sky and clouds and branches during the winter. The best I ever got.
hi!
One, i believe simple question.
with my olympus 8080wz when i 'm trying a shot with an exposure above 1" and ( the s mode or even manual )the image gets to white and iluminated...
what am i doing wrong? is there an option on the camera software to resolve these problem?
thank you very much
vitor
One, i believe simple question.
with my olympus 8080wz when i 'm trying a shot with an exposure above 1" and ( the s mode or even manual )the image gets to white and iluminated...
what am i doing wrong? is there an option on the camera software to resolve these problem?
thank you very much
vitor
hi!
One, i believe simple question.
with my olympus 8080wz when i 'm trying a shot with an exposure above 1" ( the s mode or even manual ) the image gets to white and iluminated...
what am i doing wrong? is there an option on the camera software to resolve these problem?
thank you very much
vitor
One, i believe simple question.
with my olympus 8080wz when i 'm trying a shot with an exposure above 1" ( the s mode or even manual ) the image gets to white and iluminated...
what am i doing wrong? is there an option on the camera software to resolve these problem?
thank you very much
vitor