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Use of ContaxYashica bayonet lenses

pburns

New Member
I currently have Contax 137md and Yashica FR1 bodies, used with a selection of C/Y bayonet lenses (Yashica/Tamron SP/Vivitar Series 1). Both of these bodies are exhibiting the same problem, namely the perishing of the black foam rubber light traps, resulting in fine particles of very sticky black foam in the film path (not good!!). I have just started considering buying a new Contax body (not auto focus). As the Aria is the least expensive in the range, this is the one I have been looking at. However, I am unsure whether I will be able to use my old lenses on the new body with MM bayonet. Is the new mount backwards compatable? I have tried looking around the forums and on various Contax related websites, but I have been unable to find a definitive answer. Could somebody please help!?
 
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writing4me

Hi Paul, Good news for you. The MM and earlier AE C/Y mount lenses all work in Aperature priority, and manual mode on all the Yashica and Contax C/Y mount bodies. The MM designation changed a few things that you might not notice as far as image quality and significantly added Shutter Priority mode to your choices when shooting IF your camera supports SP mode. So, yes your old lenses will work - it just depends if you will mind not having shutter priority mode. (I never use shutter priority mode anyway)

As for the light seal problem. I haven't had this done on any of my stuff - but I understand you can have new seals put in. If so, this would allow you to keep using the gear you're happy with. I don't know the cost - but maybe someone else on the list can suggest more info?

Lastly, the only exception to what I've said above is this: When I had my 167 MT and I bought a CZ 28-85 the meter wouldn't function, at all, only with that lens. I took it back to the shop - and it worked fine on all other Contax bodies. All other lenses at hand worked on my 167 - but not the 28-85. Not sure if that was a quirk or if that might be more common. If you use those two in combination - be sure to check it out before committing money permanently to both.

Hope this helps. Best, Lynn
 
D

dja

>>I currently have Contax 137md and Yashica FR1 bodies, used with a selection of C/Y bayonet lenses (Yashica/Tamron SP/Vivitar Series 1). Both of these bodies are exhibiting the same problem, namely the perishing of the black foam rubber light traps, resulting in fine particles of very sticky black foam in the film path (not good!!). I have just started considering buying a new Contax body (not auto focus). As the Aria is the least expensive in the range, this is the one I have been looking at.<<

Paul,

As Lynn mentioned, don't give up on the old equipment just because of the deteriorating light seals. ALL cameras will have that problem after 15 years or so.

There are numerous sources of replacement light seals or repair shops if you're not willing to DIY.

If you like your current equipment, stay with it. Look at new if you have need for some of the advanced capabilities of the Aria.

Good Luck,
Dave
 

tbarry

Member
Amen to what Dave said. I recently found a Canonet GIII QL17 that I had given my mother in 1973 and which she had never used. The light-seal foam had turned to goo but all else was as new. I'm not very handy, so I took it to a local camera shop and two days later it was back in my hands and it is now being used regularly. Cost was $38. Well worth it. My Canon EOS RT started leaking sticky lubricant from the shutter bumper after about 13 years use and one repairman advised me to junk it, as Canon will no longer repair them or supply parts. Instead, the camera shop owner (an another RT fan)sent it to a man in nearby San Antonio, TX, who replaced the bumper with a new design that will never leak and the RT is also in regular use.
 
A

aria1209

Hi Paul, The light seal can be purchase from ebay
and there are many of them put on bid.

I have bought one set of light seal (not expensive)from ebay about 1 week ago and I have even try to put the light seal on my Leica R3 camera it should work
on any camera. If you want the seller id just give me a email.

I am currently using Contax Aria and use 28mm f2.8,35mm f2.8, 50mm f1.7(MM),50mm f1.4, 85mm 2.8,
135 f2.8, 200mm f2.8 all these are AE mount and
they work perfectly. I have even the ML55mm yashica macro lens f2.8 and ML135mm f2.8? Yashica tthey worked on my Aria.
 
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eblombe

Hi Paul, Light seals and foam bumpers are easy to repair. I have used rubber foam strips which is intended for window tightening. It is sold in rolls and differet thiknesses with glue on the other side. It is much better than fo&lastic which deteoriates in warm and moisy circumstances. To remove the old seal rub it away and try to get the old glue away with some solvent like lighter fuel. Zippo fuel is not good bease it has 5 % nt. Dont use acetone, beacuse it may harm the mirror coatins or electronics. My 137 had the so called sticky mirror syndroma, whih is common in old Petax LX:s. I replaced the sticking fo&lastic bumper in my 137 with a peace of plastic lightseals material. which i bouht from a camera repairsman. It was a sheet of black fo&lastic with glue under the white plastic to be peeled away. I cut a suitable piece with scissors, peeled the coverin plastic away to reveal the glue and put it on its place. On clasic Contaxes the ligt seal is made of velvet or other similar materials. Happy glueing.

Erkka Blomberg. Self made camera repairsman.
 

pburns

New Member
Thanks to all for the advice- I have been inspired to attempt to DIY and save my 137 and FR1 from an early grave. I also found a thread in the 'bodies' section that advised using a mousemat! (Drat! I was looking forward to trating myself to a new camera!). Thanks again. Paul
 

bunthorpe

Active Member
For the DIY route you can buy a "kit" on Ebay (really just two pieces of foam that you have to cut to size - width and depth). Alternatively, KEH can do it for around $30.Good Luck !
 
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dja

>>Thanks to all for the advice- I have been inspired to attempt to DIY and save my 137 and FR1 from an early grave. I also found a thread in the 'bodies' section that advised using a mousemat! (Drat! I was looking forward to trating myself to a new camera!). Thanks again. Paul<<

>For the DIY route you can buy a "kit" on Ebay (really just two pieces of foam that you have to cut to size - width and depth). Alternatively, KEH can do it for around $30.Good Luck !<


OR..

Try the link below. This vendor sells OEM type foam strips made specifically for camera repair. I believe they also have a European outlet.

Good luck,
Dave

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europanorama

Well-Known Member
I've just got some slides back of Fallow Deer where I used the 2x >Macro as a conventional 2x, attached to a 300mm f2.8 Tamron. I'll post >the results shortly. I was pleased to see it did not appear to degrade >the images, but I've only seen them in a hand viewer. I'll give them a >more critical look tonight, projected to 6ft x 4ft. > >Cheers, Bob. for those who are eager buying such a 300/2.8 lens: the russians have made an apochromatic one. its quite cheap-1000usd?. i dont have a link.mybe arsenal-photo or photo-arsenal nurnberg germany, who knows? michael
 

bobbl46

Well-Known Member
I know this is off-topic .... but isn't the Russian 300/2.8 Nikon mount only and not APO?

Maybe they've made another!

p.s. the Tamron SP 300/2.8 IF is LD (Low Dispersion) and is highly regarded even though it is not APO. I hear it comes in 3 versions... but can't remember the differences. It has the advantage of fitting as many camera bodies as you have AD II adapters! :)

Enough! Lets get back to that lovely 2x Macro.

Cheers, Bob.
 
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