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Why Leica/ Leitz at all?

It's probably a good thing that I don't have the $ for a lens yet, since I'm deciding between the 21, 24, 28 or 35. Today if I was to buy one, I would likely go with the 21, 24 or 28. I like the 28 because it won't require an additional viewfinder. However, I like the 21 because it's so different from the 35 or 50. Eventually I hope to get a 90, but I will use the wider ones most of the time and the 90 not so often. I hope to have something like the 21, 50 and 90 eventually.

Anyone have experience with the tri-lens? Is it as sharp as the individual focal lengths?
 
Dear Cathy,

As Erwin Puts says in his review, the Tri-Elmar-M ASPH beats any but the latest Leica fixed focal length lenses.

Having said that in practical terms I cannot distinguish on a 16" x 24" print or projected 8' x 8' any difference at all.

If not shooting available light with a Summilux my preferred M lens is the Tri-Elmar-M ASPH

Best wishes,

Justin
 
As Erwin Puts says in his review, the Tri-Elmar-M ASPH beats any but the latest Leica fixed focal length lenses.

Having said that in practical terms I cannot distinguish on a 16" x 24" print or projected 8' x 8' any difference at all.

If not shooting available light with a Summilux my preferred M lens is the Tri-Elmar-M ASPH --------------------------------- Justin, I'll keep that in mind. When you say, "all but the latest fixed focal lenght lenses" So many choices so little money
happy.gif
. What I'm looking for in going to Leica, is that classic sharper than sharp Leica look. Can this be accomplished with the Tri without flash? Thanks again, Cathy
 
Cathy;

I'm currently using the 24, 50 & 90mm & I'm happy with that. I used to have 35, 50 & 90mm but the spread between 35 & 50 was too close.

Haven't used the 21mm but I've heard the current version is lovely. After using a 20-35mm Canon on an A2E a while back, I chose the 24mm for my Leica as it's distinctly wide when compared to the 50mm (the 35 & even the 28mm are a bit too close), yet I find it's a bit easier to handle than the 20mm (or 21mm).

When using a 20/21mm, I had to be very careful about holding the camera straight, otherwise my converging lines would go flying all over the place! Sometimes you want this, but most of the time it's a bit distracting. For me, the 24mm was still obviously wide, but more forgiving.
 
Hi Justin,

Do you have any good method to clean the surface of the lens when I didn't use the soft brush do it?

Bob
 
Dear Bob,

There are a number of levels of cleaning.

A 'dusty' lens: Light clean with "huff" and Kodak lens paper.

A 'finger marked' lens: Kodak lens cleaner on Kodak lens paper. After cleaning the lens, dry with another Kodak lens paper.

ProPhot followed with drying with Kodak lens paper is also very effective.

I only use the camel hair brush when the above is not available.

A shot of compressed air from a considerable distance tends to remove most dust.

Hope the above is of use.

Justin.
 
I have heard of someone saying a black camera M7 body has a better resell value than a silver, is it true? Possibly the silver finish tends to reflect unwant light?

I am about to get one tomorrow, please advise.
M6TTL or M7TTL?

I am new to film photpgraphy.
 
> [Samuel, I use black Leica cameras only because I prefer this finish than the silv= er one and because I work as a documentarist. Black body and black lenses ar= e, in my opininon, less showy. You can find a lot of reasons for buing a black or a chrome body, but at least it really think is ininfluent. For your choose beetween M6TTL/M7 first of all I'd have to know what kind= of photography you make. In general terms I really suggest you to buy an M6TTL. I've used an M7 for 3 months and have had a lot of problems. The camera was "eating" two batteries every two rolls and the DX coding wasn't working. Leica Italy has changed this body instead of repairing, but the new one wasn't working the same. I've been very worried about it and Leica Italy has changed also the seco= nd body with an other M6TTL (0.58) that works fine and like my "old" 0.72 ha= s never gived me problems. Consider that I work with an handheld light meter, so I really don't need the AE feature, and that very often I work in really cold situations (-20= =B0 centigrade). After all, I really prefer a mechanical camera than an AE camera develope= d on the ground of a mechanical camera. If I really need the AE I'd consider to buy a body like the Hexar RF, a camera that has been thought and built in a very different way and has a serious AE lock. But as said I really don't need AE, and the flange iusse= of the Hexar couldn't be a problem for me since I use most 50mm lenses. If you need further information please specify what kind of photography y= ou make (landscape, street photography, portaits, or others) and think about your need of AE function. Feel free to email me privately. Regards, Stefano. ]
 
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